Bespoke Bias cut wedding dress with embroidery

bespoke bias cut wedding dress in the garden

Safiya commissioned a bespoke bias cut wedding dress made up in white silk satin. The skirt was bias cut and cut slim to the hips but with more fullness at the hem and a medium length train. The backless bodice featured cross-over straps with chain embroidery.

Official Wedding pictures by Indigo Images

custom wedding dress in silk satin by Felicity Westmacott
bias cut wedding dress design Felicity Westmacott

Original design sketch

thank you letter

Safiya wrote: The biggest of Thank you’s 2 u. You didn’t let me down. I’m soooo grateful. Bann xx…Thought I’d send you a card to thank you once again. Hopefully then you’ll know how grateful I am for everything you did…

bespoke wedding dress confetti shot
bridal gown dancing

The train of Safiya’s dress hooked up for the evening so she could dance unhindered.

Making the bespoke bias cut wedding dress

close up bullion embroidery silver and gold chain

Detail of metallic embroidered chain. The bullion embroidery was carried out by the specialists at ‘Hand and Lock

open sides wedding dress with umbrella

The chain embroidery was carried out by ‘Hand and Lock

The cut away back for this bespoke bias cut wedding dress was tricky to perfect, allowing enough support for the front while revealing as much skin as Safiya was keen to have on display. The cross over detail of the straps needed all their angles just so to lie perfectly on Safiya’s body.

We created the pattern for Safiya’s dress and made up a practice run to check fit. The paper pattern pieces for the embroidered panels were then sent, along with the silk fabric to Hand and Lock to be embellished. This is how they looked on their return.

custom embroidery for wedding dress from hand and lock
bespoke fitting picture with open back

Pictures from the final fitting showing front, back and back with train hooked up (plus veil).

If you’d like to see another bias cut wedding dress head over to Katherine’s Art Deco dress in pale gold satin . And if you’d like to talk to me about having your wedding dress made you can use my contact page to be in touch.

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Felicity Westmacott

I write about all aspects of weddings, dressmaking, fashion history, and the human relation to clothing. I welcome comments and debate.

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For this elegant, forest green wedding dress, I spent a lot of hours working on the pièce de résistance; the beaded collar. Sometimes doing things over and over again can be strangely peaceful, and sometimes it can be utterly mind-numbing. And sometimes it's a bit of column A and a bit of column B! 😂

The rest of the dress was kept classic and simple, so that this design element would really shine (literally)! I used an array of styles and shapes of beads in peacock colours - blood red, deep garnet, teal, vibrant purple and sparkling gold. I then played around with design ideas, taking inspiration from the art deco era, incorporating a lot of symmetry and geometry. Once I was happy with the layout, I transferred the design onto the fabric and began many many many hours of hand-beading. 

It's always a relief when I'm finally finished with a project like this, to be able to step back and see the finished dress and think "ah, that was completely worth it." 😌

If you want to see what this dress looked like on the day of the wedding, have a look at my previous post 🌿

#weddingdress #bridetobe #weddinginspiration #2025bride #2026bride
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in
from design to completionbespoke wedding dressesFelicity Westmacott
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in