Bespoke Bias cut wedding dress with embroidery

bespoke bias cut wedding dress in the garden

Safiya commissioned a bespoke bias cut wedding dress made up in white silk satin. The skirt was bias cut and cut slim to the hips but with more fullness at the hem and a medium length train. The backless bodice featured cross-over straps with chain embroidery.

Official Wedding pictures by Indigo Images

custom wedding dress in silk satin by Felicity Westmacott
bias cut wedding dress design Felicity Westmacott

Original design sketch

thank you letter

Safiya wrote: The biggest of Thank you’s 2 u. You didn’t let me down. I’m soooo grateful. Bann xx…Thought I’d send you a card to thank you once again. Hopefully then you’ll know how grateful I am for everything you did…

bespoke wedding dress confetti shot
bridal gown dancing

The train of Safiya’s dress hooked up for the evening so she could dance unhindered.

Making the bespoke bias cut wedding dress

close up bullion embroidery silver and gold chain

Detail of metallic embroidered chain. The bullion embroidery was carried out by the specialists at ‘Hand and Lock’

open sides wedding dress with umbrella

The chain embroidery was carried out by ‘Hand and Lock

The cut away back for this bespoke bias cut wedding dress was tricky to perfect, allowing enough support for the front while revealing as much skin as Safiya was keen to have on display. The cross over detail of the straps needed all their angles just so to lie perfectly on Safiya’s body.

We created the pattern for Safiya’s dress and made up a practice run to check fit. The paper pattern pieces for the embroidered panels were then sent, along with the silk fabric to Hand and Lock to be embellished. This is how they looked on their return.

custom embroidery for wedding dress from hand and lock
bespoke fitting picture with open back

Pictures from the final fitting showing front, back and back with train hooked up (plus veil).

If you’d like to see another bias cut wedding dress head over to Katherine’s Art Deco dress in pale gold satin . And if you’d like to talk to me about having your wedding dress made you can use my contact page to be in touch.

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felicity westmacott wearing a hat

Felicity Westmacott

I write about all aspects of weddings, dressmaking, fashion history, and the human relation to clothing. I welcome comments and debate.

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As a bespoke bridal designer, it's my job to make sure your dress looks like it's part of you. 

For this bride, I designed a dramatic satin dress, with a statement bow and asymmetrical ruching across the front and back of the bodice. A more traditional bodice that might have a lace up back, or simple a concealed zip down the middle, but for this dress I didn't want to break up the flow of the fabric going across the body, so I had to come up with an elegant (and easy to use) solution. Not only did the fastening need to impossible to spot, it also needed to provide support for the bride, so she felt secure in the dress throughout the day.

I created two panels of ruched silk dupion in this beautiful rose gold colour. The panels were secured at the side, not the back, with the top panel being firmly attached with poppers. The panel underneath had hooks and underneath that I made a built in corset behind a heavy-duty zip. Because of the weight of the dress, and how fitted it was, the zip had to work harder than usual, so it was actually very useful to be able to fully hid it. It meant the bride could be fully supported, without the zip interfering with the design.

All that work meant that this bride didn't have to worry about hitching up her dress or any wardrobe malfunctions, she could just focus marrying her husband and having a gorgeous day with friends and family.

What detail in your wedding dress are you most excited to obsess over?

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emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in
from design to completionbespoke wedding dressesFelicity Westmacott
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in