Bespoke Portrait Collar Jacket and Short Wedding Dress

angela 7 alternative wedding dress portrait neckline collar and dress

I made a bespoke portrait collar jacket and wedding dress trimmed with chantilly lace for Angela. The dress and jacket were both made in opulent oyster pink duchess silk satin.

Photography bywww.christellephoto.com

Angela wanted a little old world glamour for her wedding so we created this vintage inspired ensemble in luxurious silk duchess satin and French cotton lace. The dress was a simple slimline shape to the knee with a pencil skirt and sweetheart neckline. Lace was hand appliquéd to the neckline using the pretty scalloped edge to soften the line and blend into the join of the delicate cap sleeves. The hem line dipped at the back where the fan kick-pleat was also trimmed with lace.

The jacket was made well fitted to the waist which was emphasised with a narrow ribbon sash and neat bow. The portrait collar neckline framed Angela’s face and revealed her beautiful neck and collar bones. Elbow length sleeves with little turn-ups and a box pleat at the back completed the design.

angela 4 portrait collar jacket three quarter sleeve
angela 5 pencil skirt with split wedding dress
angela 6 shell pink wedding dress and jacket
angela 19 lace applique detail to neckline and sleeves on custom vintage wedding dress

Design for a bespoke portrait collar jacket and short wedding dress

design sketch for Angela's bespoke vintage dress and jacket

Original Design Sketch

angela 17 vintage 1950's 1960's wedding dress made to measure
angela 16 silk and lace wedding dress with short cap sleeves

angela 9 palest pink wedding ensemble older mature bride sash bow
angela 10 bride with friends shirt wedding dress wrap over jacket
angela 13 vintage wedding suit bespoke
angela 14 short wedding dress with sleeves made to order
angela 16 silk and lace wedding dress with short cap sleeves
angela 18 chantilly lace trim on bespoke duchess silk wedding dress

The design for Angela’s dress included a kick pleat at the back to enable easy movement without compromising on the slim fit of the skirt. I also cut the cape sleeves with space around her shoulder that meant her ability to move and dance was not restricted. I trimmed both of these elements with the delicate chantilly lace.

angela 19 lace applique detail to neckline and sleeves on custom vintage wedding dress
angela 21 ivory cotton lace applique hand sewn to neckline of custom dress

Making Angela’s wedding dress

angela 22 toile practice run of bespoke custom wedding dress

Angela in her toile or practice run fitting. The dress and jacket made in cheap materials to check style and fit before we cut the main fabrics.

angela 2 fitting picture vintage jacket sash belt collar

Angela in her finished dress and at the final fitting.

angela 1 making final fitting picture shift dress bespoke dressmaker wedding duchess satin

To see another amazing wedding dress for a mature bride head over to my post about Catherine’s castle wedding.

To see another design for a bride with African heritage, see this dress for Ayesha

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Felicity Westmacott

I write about all aspects of weddings, dressmaking, fashion history, and the human relation to clothing. I welcome comments and debate.

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The dress on the stand vs. the dress in action✨

I made the Poinsettia dress last Christmas for my window display. I never would have predicted that it would be spotted by Rosie, who then bought it and wore it for the 2025 Miss Great Britain pageant!

My bespoke designs have been used for all sorts of events. Weddings mainly (obviously), but parties, anniversaries and proms too. But this might be the first time one of my gowns has been seen on the stage of a pageant. And doesn't Rosie look so serenely glamorous? The perfect model for this sparkly, elegant dress. And she placed in the top 10. Well done Rosie!
You might’ve noticed that I can get quite particular about language. I think it’s important, especially when that word can carry a lot of meaning. When words get misused, you as a consumer might get mis-sold something.

An example of this is the word ‘vintage’, which now gets tacked onto the description of any garment, whether or not it actually is vintage. Often the item just looks like it’s from an older period of fashion, and for many sellers now, that’s good enough to warrant the label ‘vintage’ (which it’s not).

‘Bespoke’ is another of those words. The word comes from ‘to bespeak’, which means, to ask for. Like someone walking into carpentry workshop and asking for something completely new to be made to their exact specifications.

Anything can be bespoke, if it has been asked for, to be made especially to your requirements and preferences. You often hear it in the context of bespoke suits, but the term doesn’t belong to any one industry.

When it comes to wedding dresses, you have a few options. Off-the-peg, which is what it sounds like. Then there’s custom or made-to-measure, which both describe when something is adjusted or changed. You might order a dress where there are options to customise the length, the sleeves, the neckline etc. 

But true bespoke is something different. It’s a dress that’s been designed and made completely from scratch. Completely to your measurements and your ideas. With several stages of fittings and adjustments, to ensure it’s exactly how you want it. It’s an entirely unique garment, and this is why the price of a bespoke dress can be so much more than something off-the-peg or made-to-measure.

So, next time something online claims to be ‘bespoke’, now you know what to look for to make sure you’re not being tricked into pay more for less.
Tonight is the Wedding Industry Awards! I'm in the running for two awards, which is all very exciting! 🏆

Since it's such a special occasion, I decided to design and make myself a dress. That way, regardless of the outcome, I'll feel like a winner. I rarely have time to make myself anything, so this felt rather lovely.

I used some gorgeous pink coloured silk chiffon, lined with pale gold silk satin, finished off with velvet ribbon. I started making the dress at 11am yesterday, and I finished it at 3pm today. Now I just have to finish making the bolero to go with it as well. I think we're gonna make it! 🏃🏻‍♀️
Just to be extra clear 💜

#seamstress #dressmaker #historicalfashion #weddingdressmaker #weddingdressdesigner
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in
from design to completionbespoke wedding dressesFelicity Westmacott
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in