Bespoke Portrait Collar Jacket and Short Wedding Dress

angela 7 alternative wedding dress portrait neckline collar and dress

I made a bespoke portrait collar jacket and wedding dress trimmed with chantilly lace for Angela. The dress and jacket were both made in opulent oyster pink duchess silk satin.

Photography bywww.christellephoto.com

Angela wanted a little old world glamour for her wedding so we created this vintage inspired ensemble in luxurious silk duchess satin and French cotton lace. The dress was a simple slimline shape to the knee with a pencil skirt and sweetheart neckline. Lace was hand appliquéd to the neckline using the pretty scalloped edge to soften the line and blend into the join of the delicate cap sleeves. The hem line dipped at the back where the fan kick-pleat was also trimmed with lace.

The jacket was made well fitted to the waist which was emphasised with a narrow ribbon sash and neat bow. The portrait collar neckline framed Angela’s face and revealed her beautiful neck and collar bones. Elbow length sleeves with little turn-ups and a box pleat at the back completed the design.

angela 4 portrait collar jacket three quarter sleeve
angela 5 pencil skirt with split wedding dress
angela 6 shell pink wedding dress and jacket
angela 19 lace applique detail to neckline and sleeves on custom vintage wedding dress

Design for a bespoke portrait collar jacket and short wedding dress

design sketch for Angela's bespoke vintage dress and jacket

Original Design Sketch

angela 17 vintage 1950's 1960's wedding dress made to measure
angela 16 silk and lace wedding dress with short cap sleeves

angela 9 palest pink wedding ensemble older mature bride sash bow
angela 10 bride with friends shirt wedding dress wrap over jacket
angela 13 vintage wedding suit bespoke
angela 14 short wedding dress with sleeves made to order
angela 16 silk and lace wedding dress with short cap sleeves
angela 18 chantilly lace trim on bespoke duchess silk wedding dress

The design for Angela’s dress included a kick pleat at the back to enable easy movement without compromising on the slim fit of the skirt. I also cut the cape sleeves with space around her shoulder that meant her ability to move and dance was not restricted. I trimmed both of these elements with the delicate chantilly lace.

angela 19 lace applique detail to neckline and sleeves on custom vintage wedding dress
angela 21 ivory cotton lace applique hand sewn to neckline of custom dress

Making Angela’s wedding dress

angela 22 toile practice run of bespoke custom wedding dress

Angela in her toile or practice run fitting. The dress and jacket made in cheap materials to check style and fit before we cut the main fabrics.

angela 2 fitting picture vintage jacket sash belt collar

Angela in her finished dress and at the final fitting.

angela 1 making final fitting picture shift dress bespoke dressmaker wedding duchess satin

To see another amazing wedding dress for a mature bride head over to my post about Catherine’s castle wedding.

To see another design for a bride with African heritage, see this dress for Ayesha

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Felicity Westmacott

I write about all aspects of weddings, dressmaking, fashion history, and the human relation to clothing. I welcome comments and debate.

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I'm a bespoke wedding dress maker, of course I made my own wedding dress!

When I first designed it, I wanted something that was completely 'me'; colourful, historical and a little dramatic. I had ambitions of covering the train with embroidered stems and flowers. At the same time, I had three other wedding commissions I was working on, as well as my own bridesmaids' dresses, some waistcoats for the best men and page boys. Although I managed to get it to a point where I could wear it, I didn't quite achieve what I wanted to by the time my wedding day came around.

I got married in 2007, and it wasn't until lockdown in 2021 that I managed to finish what I had started. I finally completed all the intricate embroidered details I wanted. The fuchsias, the vines and little bees and butterflies. It was so satisfying to see my visioned, fully realised, at last!

Since then I've been luckily enough to have lots of embroidery-centred commissions, and now I've learnt how to manage my time far more efficiently 😂

#2026bride #bespokebridal #bridalboutique #embroidery #ukbride #alternativebride
These are my ladies 💖 working in a bridal boutique can sometimes take you to strange places...

Can you tell I don't like Teresa?😒

#thesearemyladies #dorking #bridetobe #shoplocal #bridalshop #seamstress #weddingdressmaker
With wedding dress alterations, usually it's about making the dress the right fit for the bride. Bringing up the hem, adding in cups for support, making the bodice smaller or bigger. That sort of thing.

But sometimes, when I'm very lucky, I get to play!

Inspiration: a wild meadow of flowers by the sea
What do you think of the end result?

Photography: @sbyrnephoto

#weddingdress #weddingdressalteration #ukbride #ukseamstress #surreybride #sussexbride #londonbride #bespokeweddingdress
Here’s my handy guide to bridal veil lengths! When it comes to your wedding, a veil is such a lovely accessory to have – it can really elevate a bridal look. Some veil lengths have different names for the same thing, so let's clarify the different lengths can be called: 

Shoulder - 16" 
This one is two tiers, bubble style, in vintage tulle. Cute and fun, it has a retro vibe to it. 

Elbow length - 28" 
I chose a 3-tier style, giving this veil a bit more volume. Again, made in vintage tulle with a cut edge.

Fingertip length - 36" 
I’ve notice this length is one of the most popular for brides, so I’m showing a few versions. The first is a single tier with a corded edge, and the second has a lace edge instead. (dipdye, cut edge, with blusher ) 

Waltz (or calf) length – 58”
I made this wedding veil from vintage tulle with a diamante sparkle. This is a good choice is you want something long, but you’re a little clumsy. 

Floor (or puddle) length - 72" 
For this video I went with a floor length veil with a blusher (2-tier) and a cut edge. This one is extra wide as well, for extra drama.

Chapel length - 90" 
This one is in a cowl (or draped) style, meaning it’s placed on the head in a different way to a usual veil. I made this one from a super soft English tulle, which floats so beautifully.

Cathedral - 115" 
If you’re looking for maximum drama, then this is the length for you. This is the length used in the weddings of royalty. With a metallic corded edge, I also made this one extra wide, because if you’re going to go big, you might as well go all the way.

Which is your favourite length of wedding veil? Do you plan on having one for your wedding?

#2025bride #2026bride #bespokebridal #bridalboutique #weddingveil
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in
from design to completionbespoke wedding dressesFelicity Westmacott
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in