Bespoke Portrait Collar Jacket and Short Wedding Dress

angela 7 alternative wedding dress portrait neckline collar and dress

I made a bespoke portrait collar jacket and wedding dress trimmed with chantilly lace for Angela. The dress and jacket were both made in opulent oyster pink duchess silk satin.

Photography bywww.christellephoto.com

Angela wanted a little old world glamour for her wedding so we created this vintage inspired ensemble in luxurious silk duchess satin and French cotton lace. The dress was a simple slimline shape to the knee with a pencil skirt and sweetheart neckline. Lace was hand appliquéd to the neckline using the pretty scalloped edge to soften the line and blend into the join of the delicate cap sleeves. The hem line dipped at the back where the fan kick-pleat was also trimmed with lace.

The jacket was made well fitted to the waist which was emphasised with a narrow ribbon sash and neat bow. The portrait collar neckline framed Angela’s face and revealed her beautiful neck and collar bones. Elbow length sleeves with little turn-ups and a box pleat at the back completed the design.

angela 4 portrait collar jacket three quarter sleeve
angela 5 pencil skirt with split wedding dress
angela 6 shell pink wedding dress and jacket
angela 19 lace applique detail to neckline and sleeves on custom vintage wedding dress

Design for a bespoke portrait collar jacket and short wedding dress

design sketch for Angela's bespoke vintage dress and jacket

Original Design Sketch

angela 17 vintage 1950's 1960's wedding dress made to measure
angela 16 silk and lace wedding dress with short cap sleeves

angela 9 palest pink wedding ensemble older mature bride sash bow
angela 10 bride with friends shirt wedding dress wrap over jacket
angela 13 vintage wedding suit bespoke
angela 14 short wedding dress with sleeves made to order
angela 16 silk and lace wedding dress with short cap sleeves
angela 18 chantilly lace trim on bespoke duchess silk wedding dress

The design for Angela’s dress included a kick pleat at the back to enable easy movement without compromising on the slim fit of the skirt. I also cut the cape sleeves with space around her shoulder that meant her ability to move and dance was not restricted. I trimmed both of these elements with the delicate chantilly lace.

angela 19 lace applique detail to neckline and sleeves on custom vintage wedding dress
angela 21 ivory cotton lace applique hand sewn to neckline of custom dress

Making Angela’s wedding dress

angela 22 toile practice run of bespoke custom wedding dress

Angela in her toile or practice run fitting. The dress and jacket made in cheap materials to check style and fit before we cut the main fabrics.

angela 2 fitting picture vintage jacket sash belt collar

Angela in her finished dress and at the final fitting.

angela 1 making final fitting picture shift dress bespoke dressmaker wedding duchess satin

To see another amazing wedding dress for a mature bride head over to my post about Catherine’s castle wedding.

To see another design for a bride with African heritage, see this dress for Ayesha

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Felicity Westmacott

I write about all aspects of weddings, dressmaking, fashion history, and the human relation to clothing. I welcome comments and debate.

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I have always loved working on cultural fusion wedding dresses, and I have been very lucky that many brides trust me with this process.

For Vidushi's bespoke wedding dress, we worked to combine her Indian heritage with her husband's Polish culture. She sourced the base dress and three beautiful red saris, and we began the process of discovering the kind of fusion she was looking for. 

The final result is the perfect blend of east and west ❤️

Wedding photography by @whiteframestorytellers_
Four years ago, I opened my bridal shop after working from home for the past 16 years. It was a huge decision and I had so many thoughts, so many pros and cons, and so many fears going round and round.

Here are just three of the doubts I had about buying the shop:

1.	The Commute
You know how sometimes the idea of something just feels bad, and then it turns out the reality of it is fine? That.
I worried about how long it would take, about traffic, about wasting time.

But the shop is just an 18-minute drive and I don't notice the time pass. I even cycle there occasionally, which is good for both my body and my mind. And it is so worth it for the separation between home life and work life. I can let my creativity lead me, instead of the distractions of a busy house.

2.	Premise Costs
My dad once told me, “The only person who makes money from small retail is the landlord", and I worried all my income would disappear into rent. But I was in the very privileged position to be able to buy my shop. This means the shop is an investment, as well as a workshop and a welcoming space for my brides.

3.	Self-Doubt
The loudest voice, with constant thoughts about whether the shop would be good enough, would anyone come in and would anyone like my work. 
But they do. Brides who see the dresses in the window, then visit the shop and often choose to work with me.

I am so grateful to my past self, and everyone who supported me in taking the leap. All the doubt was really worth it. 

Here’s to another four years, and hopefully many more 🤍
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in
from design to completionbespoke wedding dressesFelicity Westmacott
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in