Bespoke Portrait Collar Jacket and Short Wedding Dress

angela 7 alternative wedding dress portrait neckline collar and dress

I made a bespoke portrait collar jacket and wedding dress trimmed with chantilly lace for Angela. The dress and jacket were both made in opulent oyster pink duchess silk satin.

Photography bywww.christellephoto.com

Angela wanted a little old world glamour for her wedding so we created this vintage inspired ensemble in luxurious silk duchess satin and French cotton lace. The dress was a simple slimline shape to the knee with a pencil skirt and sweetheart neckline. Lace was hand appliquéd to the neckline using the pretty scalloped edge to soften the line and blend into the join of the delicate cap sleeves. The hem line dipped at the back where the fan kick-pleat was also trimmed with lace.

The jacket was made well fitted to the waist which was emphasised with a narrow ribbon sash and neat bow. The portrait collar neckline framed Angela’s face and revealed her beautiful neck and collar bones. Elbow length sleeves with little turn-ups and a box pleat at the back completed the design.

angela 4 portrait collar jacket three quarter sleeve
angela 5 pencil skirt with split wedding dress
angela 6 shell pink wedding dress and jacket
angela 19 lace applique detail to neckline and sleeves on custom vintage wedding dress

Design for a bespoke portrait collar jacket and short wedding dress

design sketch for Angela's bespoke vintage dress and jacket

Original Design Sketch

angela 17 vintage 1950's 1960's wedding dress made to measure
angela 16 silk and lace wedding dress with short cap sleeves

angela 9 palest pink wedding ensemble older mature bride sash bow
angela 10 bride with friends shirt wedding dress wrap over jacket
angela 13 vintage wedding suit bespoke
angela 14 short wedding dress with sleeves made to order
angela 16 silk and lace wedding dress with short cap sleeves
angela 18 chantilly lace trim on bespoke duchess silk wedding dress

The design for Angela’s dress included a kick pleat at the back to enable easy movement without compromising on the slim fit of the skirt. I also cut the cape sleeves with space around her shoulder that meant her ability to move and dance was not restricted. I trimmed both of these elements with the delicate chantilly lace.

angela 19 lace applique detail to neckline and sleeves on custom vintage wedding dress
angela 21 ivory cotton lace applique hand sewn to neckline of custom dress

Making Angela’s wedding dress

angela 22 toile practice run of bespoke custom wedding dress

Angela in her toile or practice run fitting. The dress and jacket made in cheap materials to check style and fit before we cut the main fabrics.

angela 2 fitting picture vintage jacket sash belt collar

Angela in her finished dress and at the final fitting.

angela 1 making final fitting picture shift dress bespoke dressmaker wedding duchess satin

To see another amazing wedding dress for a mature bride head over to my post about Catherine’s castle wedding.

To see another design for a bride with African heritage, see this dress for Ayesha

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Felicity Westmacott

I write about all aspects of weddings, dressmaking, fashion history, and the human relation to clothing. I welcome comments and debate.

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Destination Vegas. Rockabilly bride. Halloween vibes. 
Sounds like the perfect wedding.

Gorgeous goth Ellie got married in Las Vegas on Halloween. She wanted something alternative, retro and a little spooky. She realised she was never going to find that with an off-the-rack wedding dress. That's where I came in.

I designed and made her white and purple wedding dress with a wonderful blend of 1950’s and 90's shapes, modern styling and subtle Halloween Vixen detail. Harkening back to when Halloween was a little more stylish - perfect for this gothic bombshell. Below the boned bodice, I ruched and layered white satin over sumptuous shot black/purple taffeta and layers and layers of white net. The white satin was spangled all over with hand sewn crystals, ready to sparkle under the Vegas lights. 

My favourite detail? The hand beaded spider web made from Swarovski crystals. Spooky but subtle.
As a seamstress there are certain things that give me the ick. Usually they're pretty specific and unless you're also a dressmaker it might be something you're completely unaware of.

I've always had a ‘thing’ about language generally. I find it really interesting. I've noticed how strong a reaction I can have to people using language differently to what I’m used to. And when I notice that I often go on a bit of a deep dive to understand where that difference stems from. I think coming from a historical costuming background also means I love to know the history of things (and despite my instinctive language-conservative leanings, I do actively work on being accepting and open minded, trying celebrate the differences).

That said, please don’t say your dress has a trail!

Snails have trails - dresses have trains! 🐌
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in
from design to completionbespoke wedding dressesFelicity Westmacott
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in