Rachel contacted me wanting a bespoke early 1910s inspired bridal look. Of all the brides I’ve worked with, she was the one who wanted the dress to be the most historically correct. Although not exact (for example, we didn’t include any corseting), she wanted a period accurate silhouette.
During our chats, consultations and fittings I discovered that Rachel works at university teaching adjacent to history of dress and costume. Considering my own, similar background, I felt so honoured she chose me to make her wedding dress! Birds of a feather!
I had such a wonderful time working with Rachel, and the end result is this beautiful Edwardian inspired wedding dress.
Photography – Darren Kirwan
I’m not sure if ‘alchemist’ or even ‘genius’ cuts it. More like ‘wonderful wizard of beautiful stuffs’. What a dress. What talent. So beautiful. You cut it out and stitched it straight from my dreams.
Real bride, Rachel
Designing an Edwardian Inspired Wedding Dress
The inspiration for Rachel’s wedding dress was the late Edwardian era, around the 1910s. Common features from that period were empire waistlines and square necklines, although as with all epochs of fashion, there was still a lot of variation to be found. This particular era was a lot more relaxed and bohemian compared to previous decades, which had been much more restrictive.
Rachel could have opted for other era-accurate details, like the structured undergarments that would have been common then. But she decided that comfort was far more important (and I’m inclined to agree)! If you plan on wearing your dress all day, considering comfort can be a big factor in the design process.
The Making Of An Edwardian Inspired Wedding Dress
Rachel is from Ireland, so in order to save time and money travelling, she would book a hotel in Surrey for two or three days at a time. In that space we booked multiple fittings, then she would fly home again.
In the first few fittings she tried on the toile (the test run of the dress, but in a cheap material), and I would make note of any adjustments needed. During this process the top layer of skirt changed from the original design. Rachel felt there were too many layers, so we reduced them, no problem.
Being Irish, Rachel wanted to include antique Irish Limerick lace, so she sourced two vintage lace stoles (like a shawl but smaller and usually rectangular). We decided to wait until she had found them to decide exactly what we wanted to do with them. Opting to work with the pieces, rather than make the pieces work for us. Once she had them we experimented with what would be best to show off the lace, playing around with placement.
We decided on the following: over the main dress shell, I added one stole barely cut (just a gap for the zip) with sleeves and a cross-over front. The other stole was cut up and used as a source of lace motifs. I cut the edging and the floral designs, appliquéing them onto the draping and train at the back.
When Rachel was at my shop for a fitting, she spotted a 1920s art deco style cocoon coat I had made for a styled wedding shoot. She tried it on and bought it that day. It was never intended to go with dress – it was just a spur of the moment purchase. I’m so happy it found a good home. I often put garments made for photoshoots for sale on my Etsy shop once the shoot is done.
The Final Result
It was such a pleasure to geek out with Rachel during this making process. I think I’m safe is saying she was happy with the end result – a completely custom made Edwardian inspired wedding dress, featuring antique lace to represent her Irish heritage.
If you’re looking for more Edwardian inspiration, you can find others I’ve made here (with a Downton Abbey theme) and here for a mature bride.
