Ivory silk mikado wedding coat

wedding coat silk mikado ivory


Catherine got married at Guildford Cathedral in December so her silk mikado wedding coat and dress ensemble worked perfectly for the weather and spectacular venue.

Official photography by taylormadeimagery

I design a simple and elegant long wedding coat in ivory silk Mikado with slight lip and plunge v-neckline and criss-cross ribbon waist detail. The long sleeves with bell cuffs had real button and loop detail. The train flared with three box pleats and a back belt and cover buttons to finish.

Her dress beneath was just floor length all round and made in layered soft satin and georgette for the plain circle skirt. The boned bodice was duchess satin with a guipure lace over-lay. It had a square neckline and three quarter length sleeves with flared cuffs to finish. A pleated satin sash drew attention to Catherine’s shapely waistline and was ornamented with a real antique gold and pearl brooch and extra hand sewn pearls. The back closed with real buttons and loops. I also helped to restore her mother’s vintage veil and made dresses and bolero’s for her attendants.

modest wedding dress custom made

Catherine with her beautiful flowers all ready to go

windy wedding day on the steps
veils in the wind royal style wedding coat

It was a little windy on their arrival to the Cathedral but every effort was taken to get Catherine safely inside with her veil still attached

before the ceremony bridal long coat
walking up the cathedral aisle wedding coat
bridal veil in a church traditions

Nicola helping Catherine with the big ‘reveal’. Having a plan for who will raise the ‘blusher’ of your veil, and perhaps a practice is always a good idea!

long sleeve wedding dress
plus size bridesmaid dress navy blue silk

Nicola was a perfect bridesmaid, supporting Catherine through the service and always helpful at dress fittings! To see more pictures of her dress and the little bridesmaids click here.

Original design sketches

In the end the sash tails were left off the dress sash and the knot changed for the antique brooch detail.

wedding portrait in a cathedral flowergirls
square neck wedding dress with guipure lace

Later in the day Catherine removed the silk mikado wedding coat to reveal the pretty dress.

made to measure wedding gown silk and lace
cutting the cake plus size bride wedding dress
plus size wedding bride dress sash square neck

We used a beautiful antique pearl and gold brooch on the sash as a pretty detail and also Catherine’s ‘something old’. I added more pearls around it so it did not look too small on the wide sash.

couture detail brooch wedding dress sash
rouleau buttons and loops wedding dress

Back detail: the button and loop closure

Making Catherine’s Dress and Ivory silk mikado wedding coat

toile fitting picture bespoke dressmaker

A fitting picture in the ‘toile’ or practice run of the dress

wedding coat toile fitting picture

A fitting picture in the ‘toile’ or practice run of the coat

fitting picture bespoke dress and coat wedding

The partly made dress and coat.

fitting picture made to measure bridal gown

A final fitting picture in the finished dress.

pleated sash and sleeve detail pearl

Detail of the finished dress with pleated sash, antique brooch and lace applique detail on the sleeves

guipure lace flower bridal gown

Detail of the lace on Catherine’s dress with ‘daffodil’ motifs around the neckline.

vintage veil in a fitting lace flowers

Catherine wore her mother’s veil, the lace applique pieces are original but they had been removed. We carefully replaced them and spaced them to show up beyond the ivory of the coat’s train.

wedding dress and bridesmaids ready to go

I also made three flowergirl boleros, an adult bridesmaid dress and a going away dress for Catherine. This is the whole ‘collection’ steamed and waiting for her to arrive and take them away! Click here to see more pictures of the bridesmaid and flowergirls.

wrist loop bustle something blue tradition

A hidden detail of the ‘something blue’ rose I sew to all the dresses I make next to the wrist loop on the train.

To talk to me more about having your coat wedding dress made to order just get in touch

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Felicity Westmacott

I write about all aspects of weddings, dressmaking, fashion history, and the human relation to clothing. I welcome comments and debate.

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Destination Vegas. Rockabilly bride. Halloween vibes. 
Sounds like the perfect wedding.

Gorgeous goth Ellie got married in Las Vegas on Halloween. She wanted something alternative, retro and a little spooky. She realised she was never going to find that with an off-the-rack wedding dress. That's where I came in.

I designed and made her white and purple wedding dress with a wonderful blend of 1950’s and 90's shapes, modern styling and subtle Halloween Vixen detail. Harkening back to when Halloween was a little more stylish - perfect for this gothic bombshell. Below the boned bodice, I ruched and layered white satin over sumptuous shot black/purple taffeta and layers and layers of white net. The white satin was spangled all over with hand sewn crystals, ready to sparkle under the Vegas lights. 

My favourite detail? The hand beaded spider web made from Swarovski crystals. Spooky but subtle.
As a seamstress there are certain things that give me the ick. Usually they're pretty specific and unless you're also a dressmaker it might be something you're completely unaware of.

I've always had a ‘thing’ about language generally. I find it really interesting. I've noticed how strong a reaction I can have to people using language differently to what I’m used to. And when I notice that I often go on a bit of a deep dive to understand where that difference stems from. I think coming from a historical costuming background also means I love to know the history of things (and despite my instinctive language-conservative leanings, I do actively work on being accepting and open minded, trying celebrate the differences).

That said, please don’t say your dress has a trail!

Snails have trails - dresses have trains! 🐌
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in
from design to completionbespoke wedding dressesFelicity Westmacott
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in