The bespoke dressmaking process

Making your bespoke wedding dress is a labour of love in four stages; consultation, design, creation and collection. Let me guide you through the bespoke dressmaking process in detail.

interpreting your dreams into dressesConsultation

Initial enquiry

Your first enquiry could be through my web-form, by e-mail or telephone. I will ask about your wedding date and a what sort of dress or ensemble you would like. I am happy to answer any questions specific to your design. Then, if I have availability and think I might be able to fulfil your needs, we will make a date for a design consultation.

 

To find out more about my reputation visit my google review page.

 

I'll be happy to start the bespoke dressmaking process for your dress.

 

felicity westmacott grecian wedding dress surrey

Design Consultation

The design consultation usually takes place at my shop-studio though some people opt for a video chat. In person meetings are ideal for looking at all the fabric sample books. If meeting online I can screen-share from my supplier's websites and send you samples after the meeting. You should allow a minimum of an hour for your first consultation; sometimes it may take a little longer

 

During the consultation we will discuss what you require and I will make notes and create quick sketches of ideas. I will be able to provide a reasonable idea of the cost of any ideas we discuss but a firm quote will be posted or emailed to you afterwards.

 

To book a consultation click here

Fabrics and Materials

I will advise on fabrics and materials at your consultation. I have sample books with hundreds of colours and types of fabrics to which we can refer. You can order fabrics through me or I can recommend suppliers and shops for you to visit. If you decide to purchase all or part of your materials elsewhere I can provide guidance on fabrics, weights and quantities required. I can also accompany you on a fabric shopping expedition, see the end of this page for more details.

 

I normally send you fabric samples and options alongside the quote letter. And once you are booked-in samples of anything missing will be provided so you can match shoes and accessories etc.

 

I can order extra fabric for you if you need it, perhaps for the florist, the invitations or venue decoration. I am happy to sell you fabric from my sample books even if you decide to have your order made up elsewhere!

finding the balanceDesigning your dress

Designing your bespoke wedding dress

If we are designing from scratch, any pictures or reference material you can bring with you to give me the flavour of what you want is immensely helpful. Sending me a pinterest board, links or attaching images to your enquiry email are all encouraged! References might be from history, bridal magazines, films, a picture of your venue, the colours of a landscape or anything that has some element of what you require. Before creating a new design for a photoshoot or for a costume I often put together a "mood board". A mood board is a collection of images that pulls together all the elements desired and conjures up an atmosphere to inspire the final design.

 

Pictures are especially helpful if you (like most people) are not sure of the technical or design terms for the style or details you require. Designing for someone who has no real idea or cannot explain what they want is very difficult but not impossible. It will just take me a little longer to narrow down the specifics.

 

Design consultations and quotes are free for the bespoke dressmaking process. Very occasionally I will ask a small fee if the design process requested goes above and beyond my usual offering.

 

Finalising your design and the Quotation:

After your appointment I will provide a line drawing of your design with a quotation for you to approve. There will be with notes on any styling or fabrics discussed. My quote for your bespoke wedding dress will list the materials and the making costs separately so you can easily understand which elements are costing how much. Some people get to the stage of finalising a design and putting down a deposit at the first consultation. For others it takes longer to define exactly what is required.

 

I will include options for any details not finalised during the consultation, for example, different sleeves, necklines or fabric choices for you to consider. I may mark some parts of the quote as only an estimate if the exact details of a design have not been finalised. Sometimes the amount of work involved (for example lots of embroidery) is not clear and a place-holder budget is allowed for that part of the work.

 

Below: example design and quote letter (for Lisa's 2024 wedding), bespoke dressmaking process

Wedding dress design and quote letter page 1 book a consultation
Wedding dress quote letter page 2
Wedding dress quote letter page 3
with love from first to final stitchCreation

Making your bespoke wedding dress

All consultations and fittings take place in my shop-studio so you will be completely private and you will have my full attention during your appointment. Mum's, children, bridesmaids and friends are welcome at your fittings, but please do check beforehand as space is not infinite!

 

I normally carry out work with reference to the line drawing that we have agreed is the final design. But we will often confirm some elements during the fittings where it's much easier to visualise the real thing! For example, neckline depth, the placement of beading detail or the length of a hanging sleeve. Small changes rarely require a revised price of quote but I will charge for any extra time or materials needed if you change your mind on major aspects during the bespoke making process.

 

measuring for the bespoke dressmaking process

Every bespoke commission will have a pattern drafted especially to fit your figure. The first step is to take your measurements. I may also take a few digital photographs of you (clothed) for my own reference.

 

I always prefer to take the measurements myself; this means that I can make allowances for the type of figure you have, such as a short waist, low bust or rounded shoulders. If I am making items for anyone who lives too far away to attend a measuring appointment I will supply a guide to the measurements I require. I will always suggest that an experienced dressmaker takes the measurements. And I will ask you to sign a disclaimer absolving me from any problems arising from inaccurate measurements.

 

Small size alterations are normal during the making process for your bespoke wedding dress. I usually leave at least 2 inches of seam allowance inside the garment to allow for changes. And I always cut the hem long to allow for shoe heels. I can take no responsibility for a garment fitting if you lose or gain a lot of weight. If you plan to diet please inform me early on and we will plan the making process accordingly.

 

making your bespoke wedding dress with felicity westmacott

The First fitting with your bespoke wedding dress

You will need your shoes and the underwear you plan to wear on the day as early as possible in the fitting process. This is important as the shape of what goes underneath will obviously affect the clothes above! I may also ask you to attend early fittings for any corsets or petticoats for historical (and sometimes contemporary or spectacular) dresses. These foundations need to be correct before further work can be carried out.

 

For most wedding dresses I will make a "toile" (pronounced 'twahl'), which is a mock up of the basic elements of your design. It is made in cheaper but comparable fabric in order to check certain aspects of style and fit before using the final materials. A toile can be helpful to prevent costly mistakes. For example, if I am working with particularly expensive fabrics, to confirm ideas on sleeve length or if you have more unusual body shape.

 

Picture: Amy's bespoke wedding dress

 

Felicity westmacott bespoke wedding dress fitting

The second/third/final fittings

Most bespoke commissions will need at least two fittings, and up to four or five is normal. Your final fitting will usually be about 10-14 days before your wedding to allow for any last minute weight loss/gain. I can usually accommodate earlier or later final fittings if you let me know at the design consultation.

 

If you are travelling a long way for fittings we can sometimes arrange to have more than one fitting inside a day or a few days.

Pictures: showing Lisa's four progressive fittings as we made her bespoke wedding dress. A toile first and then three fittings as the dress came together.

toile fitting for bespoke wedding dress
fitting picture with fully cupped bodice
Pins in a wedding dress at a bespoke fitting
finished wedding dress, bride in the mirror
receiving your finished bespoke wedding dressCollection

preparation

I will prepare and steam your dress so it is in perfect condition and ready to wear. I usually advocate for separate final fitting and collection dates. It is best for your bespoke wedding dress to be taken home unworn to be ready for the big day. Your commission will be ready to transport inside a suitable length gown bag on a padded hanger.

 

Collecting your wedding dress

We will make a 'pencilled in' picking up date at the time you first commission your order. A final date and time can be confirmed at a later fitting. When I have finished your dress you can choose to collect right away or leave it with me for storage if there are still some weeks or months until the wedding day.

 

Most people collect their order in person but I can also send it by secure courier. Postal prices with insurance depend on the value and weight of your order and on your location. When posted your order may need steaming upon arrival. If you are travelling overseas I can advise on packing your dress and organising for the dress to be steamed on arrival.

 

Photo: Kate Bellinger Photography for the bespoke dressmaking process

follow me on instagram@felicitywestmacott

“I cannot stop thinking of you. From the mornings you ease, to the evenings you quiet, to the dreams you inhabit, my thoughts of you never end.”

Who doesn't want to run away from the world for a while? To take their lover by the hand and find a moment of quiet; to dance, to read, to hold each other.

The romance between Daphne and Simon in Bridgerton was so electric. Even though they had a wedding in the series, I wanted to re-imagine the wedding dress Daphne would have worn, adding a bit more personality and colour into a classic Regency silhouette. 

I wanted to keep the brilliant combination of old and new design elements the show does so well. So, along with the empire line waist, square neckline and boned stays (corset), I used modern fabrics like tulle, beaded lace and shantung. And, of course, the pink and lilac dip dye skirt.

Could you see this dress on the next season of Bridgerton?

If the attraction you feel to this dress is as strong as Simon's attraction to Daphne, then it's currently on sale in my shop (link in bio). There's only one, so grasp it whilst you still can, before it finds another lover!

VENUE | @commissionershouseweddings
CONCEPT & STATIONERY | @ribbonsnwren
PLANNER & STYLIST | @lilyjonesevents
PHOTOGRAPHER | @katehennesseyphotography
VIDEOGRAPHER | @lukebatchelorproductions
MODELS | @monamiepics & @kaiimodelling
FLORIST | @cocobloom2019
HAIR & MAKE UP | @sjbhairandmakeup
DRESS | @felicitywestmacott
SUIT | @couchmanbespoke
CAKE & COOKIE FAVOURS | @allshapescake
LACE BOOTS | @houseofelliotlaceboots
VEIL | @tulleandflo
HAIRPIECES | @vintageadornments
JEWELLERY | @varoshebespokejewellery
CROCKERY & GLASSWARE | @atouchofvintageuk
LINEN | @northfieldslinen
MUSICIAN | @welshiewithaharp
MUSICIAN’S DRESS | @matchimony
SHOOT ASSISTANT | @_shanhunt_
A reminder that you have about 3 weeks left to enter the @wed4pal raffle!⁠
⁠
I'm offering one @wed4pal raffle winner either:⁠
⁠
a. A bridal dip dye package ⁠
OR ⁠
b. A custom dip dye overskirt. ⁠
⁠
With tickets for only £45!⁠
⁠
This is just one way in which my business continues to take a stand against genocide, apartheid and injustice. 100% of ticket sales (minus mandatory transaction fees) will go towards addressing the genocide in Palestine, with 50% going to Pal Humanity (an organisation providing medical aid, education and lifesaving supplies in Northern Gaza) and 50% going to Gazan couple, Sama and Khalil, and their families to help them sustain and rebuild their lives.⁠
⁠
You can now buy tickets for this raffle prize until the fundraiser ends on 14th February 2026. Buy your tickets today - perhaps as a gift to a pal who is getting married - and find out on Valentine’s Day if you’ve won.⁠
⁠
The full terms and conditions and buy your tickets by following the link to the fundraiser in @wed4pal bio or head straight to http://www.amostcuriousweddingfair.co.uk⁠
⁠
There are over 50 raffles running as part of the fundraiser with incredible prizes ranging from cakes and ceremonies, to photography, videography, art, flowers and wedding wear. There are also some awesome suppliers you can book directly, who will donate a portion of their fees or sales to the fundraiser. You can check them out on the @wed4pal Instagram page.⁠
⁠
Good luck!⁠
⁠
Illustration: @karin_akesson_design
"Say yes to heaven, say yes to me" 🤍

This wedding dress is so heart-achingly romantic. The layers upon layers of fluffy tulle, the white roses encircled by trailing lace and those deep, vibrant colours. 

Bold. Beautiful. Completely unique and completely bespoke. Perfect for an alternative bride looking for couture colour.

#whimsicalwedding #altwedding #unconventionalwedding #nontraditionalwedding #weddingdressinspo colouredweddingdresses dipdyeweddingdress

 

Photography Credits on this Page

 

grecian dress: Iris visuals

fabrics: Rachel mills photography

fastening the back: Nathan horner

workroom pictures: altwedding.co.uk

hanging dress: kate bellinger photogrpahy

emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in
from design to completionbespoke wedding dressesFelicity Westmacott
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in