The bespoke dressmaking process
Making your bespoke wedding dress is a labour of love in four stages; consultation, design, creation and collection. Let me guide you through the bespoke dressmaking process in detail.
Initial enquiry
Your first enquiry could be through my web-form, by e-mail or telephone. I will ask about your wedding date and a what sort of dress or ensemble you would like. I am happy to answer any questions specific to your design. Then, if I have availability and think I might be able to fulfil your needs, we will make a date for a design consultation.
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I'll be happy to start the bespoke dressmaking process for your dress.
Design Consultation
The design consultation usually takes place at my shop-studio though some people opt for a video chat. In person meetings are ideal for looking at all the fabric sample books. If meeting online I can screen-share from my supplier's websites and send you samples after the meeting. You should allow a minimum of an hour for your first consultation; sometimes it may take a little longer
During the consultation we will discuss what you require and I will make notes and create quick sketches of ideas. I will be able to provide a reasonable idea of the cost of any ideas we discuss but a firm quote will be posted or emailed to you afterwards.
To book a consultation click here
Fabrics and Materials
I will advise on fabrics and materials at your consultation. I have sample books with hundreds of colours and types of fabrics to which we can refer. You can order fabrics through me or I can recommend suppliers and shops for you to visit. If you decide to purchase all or part of your materials elsewhere I can provide guidance on fabrics, weights and quantities required. I can also accompany you on a fabric shopping expedition, see the end of this page for more details.
I normally send you fabric samples and options alongside the quote letter. And once you are booked-in samples of anything missing will be provided so you can match shoes and accessories etc.
I can order extra fabric for you if you need it, perhaps for the florist, the invitations or venue decoration. I am happy to sell you fabric from my sample books even if you decide to have your order made up elsewhere!
Designing your bespoke wedding dress
If we are designing from scratch, any pictures or reference material you can bring with you to give me the flavour of what you want is immensely helpful. Sending me a pinterest board, links or attaching images to your enquiry email are all encouraged! References might be from history, bridal magazines, films, a picture of your venue, the colours of a landscape or anything that has some element of what you require. Before creating a new design for a photoshoot or for a costume I often put together a "mood board". A mood board is a collection of images that pulls together all the elements desired and conjures up an atmosphere to inspire the final design.
Pictures are especially helpful if you (like most people) are not sure of the technical or design terms for the style or details you require. Designing for someone who has no real idea or cannot explain what they want is very difficult but not impossible. It will just take me a little longer to narrow down the specifics.
Design consultations and quotes are free for the bespoke dressmaking process. Very occasionally I will ask a small fee if the design process requested goes above and beyond my usual offering.
Finalising your design and the Quotation:
After your appointment I will provide a line drawing of your design with a quotation for you to approve. There will be with notes on any styling or fabrics discussed. My quote for your bespoke wedding dress will list the materials and the making costs separately so you can easily understand which elements are costing how much. Some people get to the stage of finalising a design and putting down a deposit at the first consultation. For others it takes longer to define exactly what is required.
I will include options for any details not finalised during the consultation, for example, different sleeves, necklines or fabric choices for you to consider. I may mark some parts of the quote as only an estimate if the exact details of a design have not been finalised. Sometimes the amount of work involved (for example lots of embroidery) is not clear and a place-holder budget is allowed for that part of the work.
Below: example design and quote letter (for Lisa's 2024 wedding), bespoke dressmaking process
Making your bespoke wedding dress
All consultations and fittings take place in my shop-studio so you will be completely private and you will have my full attention during your appointment. Mum's, children, bridesmaids and friends are welcome at your fittings, but please do check beforehand as space is not infinite!
I normally carry out work with reference to the line drawing that we have agreed is the final design. But we will often confirm some elements during the fittings where it's much easier to visualise the real thing! For example, neckline depth, the placement of beading detail or the length of a hanging sleeve. Small changes rarely require a revised price of quote but I will charge for any extra time or materials needed if you change your mind on major aspects during the bespoke making process.
measuring for the bespoke dressmaking process
Every bespoke commission will have a pattern drafted especially to fit your figure. The first step is to take your measurements. I may also take a few digital photographs of you (clothed) for my own reference.
I always prefer to take the measurements myself; this means that I can make allowances for the type of figure you have, such as a short waist, low bust or rounded shoulders. If I am making items for anyone who lives too far away to attend a measuring appointment I will supply a guide to the measurements I require. I will always suggest that an experienced dressmaker takes the measurements. And I will ask you to sign a disclaimer absolving me from any problems arising from inaccurate measurements.
Small size alterations are normal during the making process for your bespoke wedding dress. I usually leave at least 2 inches of seam allowance inside the garment to allow for changes. And I always cut the hem long to allow for shoe heels. I can take no responsibility for a garment fitting if you lose or gain a lot of weight. If you plan to diet please inform me early on and we will plan the making process accordingly.
The First fitting with your bespoke wedding dress
You will need your shoes and the underwear you plan to wear on the day as early as possible in the fitting process. This is important as the shape of what goes underneath will obviously affect the clothes above! I may also ask you to attend early fittings for any corsets or petticoats for historical (and sometimes contemporary or spectacular) dresses. These foundations need to be correct before further work can be carried out.
For most wedding dresses I will make a "toile" (pronounced 'twahl'), which is a mock up of the basic elements of your design. It is made in cheaper but comparable fabric in order to check certain aspects of style and fit before using the final materials. A toile can be helpful to prevent costly mistakes. For example, if I am working with particularly expensive fabrics, to confirm ideas on sleeve length or if you have more unusual body shape.
Picture: Amy's bespoke wedding dress
The second/third/final fittings
Most bespoke commissions will need at least two fittings, and up to four or five is normal. Your final fitting will usually be about 10-14 days before your wedding to allow for any last minute weight loss/gain. I can usually accommodate earlier or later final fittings if you let me know at the design consultation.
If you are travelling a long way for fittings we can sometimes arrange to have more than one fitting inside a day or a few days.
Pictures: showing Lisa's four progressive fittings as we made her bespoke wedding dress. A toile first and then three fittings as the dress came together.
preparation
I will prepare and steam your dress so it is in perfect condition and ready to wear. I usually advocate for separate final fitting and collection dates. It is best for your bespoke wedding dress to be taken home unworn to be ready for the big day. Your commission will be ready to transport inside a suitable length gown bag on a padded hanger.
Collecting your wedding dress
We will make a 'pencilled in' picking up date at the time you first commission your order. A final date and time can be confirmed at a later fitting. When I have finished your dress you can choose to collect right away or leave it with me for storage if there are still some weeks or months until the wedding day.
Most people collect their order in person but I can also send it by secure courier. Postal prices with insurance depend on the value and weight of your order and on your location. When posted your order may need steaming upon arrival. If you are travelling overseas I can advise on packing your dress and organising for the dress to be steamed on arrival.
Photo: Kate Bellinger Photography for the bespoke dressmaking process
Story time!
Remember the Swan Lake themed wedding photoshoot I featured a few days` ago?
When the day came for the shoot, we were blessed with one of the sunniest days of the year so far (and this was March), but the ground was still very wet. We really wanted to get some photos amongst the trees for that real fairy tale feeling, but our beautiful bride, @alicia.modelling_x didn`t want to risk ruining the outfit.
And that`s when I stepped in!
You may think that a seamstress is only on set to help with the dress. But I`m here to do anything that might be useful to the shoot, and if that means carrying Alicia across the boggy ground, then that`s what I`ll do! 😂
(I was quite pleased that all my work on strength with @mybodyrocksstudio is paying off!)
If you want a seamstress who will not only make the perfect bespoke wedding dress for you, but will also go the extra mile for you, I think you know who to call 😉
(shout to @hair_by_tel for capturing this moment)
Make your own happily ever after 🤍
This bespoke wedding dress is an ode to Odette, the Swan Princess.
A satin corset resplendent with hundreds of feathers, individually sewn on.
Bejewelled silver lace, catching the light perfectly.
Layers of tulle and sequined lace, in a cascade of volume and texture.
And when it`s time to dance with your prince or princess, the longer layers can be removed to reveal a ballet-length skirt.
Tag someone who deserves their own fairy tale ending ✨
Suppliers
Photographer: @snappedbycatx
Dress: @felicitywestmacott
Makeup artist: @larajamesmakeup
Hair stylist: @hair_by_tel
Venue: @bradbournehouse
Model: @alicia.modelling_x
Today is my birthday, so I wanted to share something I`ve been grateful for almost every year of my life.
I started ballet lessons when I was four, moving on to the Lewiston School of Dance until 18 (I even won the Pointe Work cup with them once). My grandmother had been a professional dancer and my mum also took ballet lessons (and still does, at over 70!), so there has always been a lot of ballet in my family.
When I went to uni, I stopped dancing, then came back to it in the form of adult ballet lessons with my mum, and then got pregnant. After that I found aerial hoop, which replaced dancing as my active hobby. However, my ballet training has really helped my progress in hoop, and I`m very grateful for the skills I continue to draw upon for both hoop and acting.
What`s a hobby you`re grateful to have started, no matter what stage in life?
(and shout out to @hair_by_tel for capturing this video of me playing around during a recent bridal photoshoot)
#ballet #passion #dancing
"Felicity was amazing to work with. I can`t express into words how much I loved my overskirt. We had a unique theme and I knew exactly what I wanted but not how to make it work. She understood the look and colour theme I wanted and absolutely nailed it. From start to finish Felicity was supportive and informative on what would work best to make my vision come to life. Her knowledge and quality of work shines through her pieces. I would absolutely recommend her to everyone!"
It fills me with so much joy to read such kind words and know that I was a small part of making such a special day happen.
Bride Ashley chose to have the colours of her dip dye overskirt arranged in vertical stripes rather then my usual horizontal. I think the effect is really striking, where every angle of the skirt reveals a different blend of colours. And it match her hair!
Photography - @copper_squirrel_photography
"Dearest Fliss, I`m not sure I have the adequate words to express how thankful I am, or how talented and wonderful I think you are, but I`ll give it a go. My hopes and dreams for my dress were actualised by your amazing hands. My dress was so beautiful and different - just what I wanted. You made me shine on our special day."
I made this dress over 10 years ago now but it still makes me feel emotional reading this, so many years after.
As part of making Claire`s gorgeous blue and white 1800s-inspired wedding dress was creating this bespoke corset from scratch. The dress was made with an 18th century `flat-fronted` boned bodice, and once we fitted it, I played with shape, flow and texture to create this completely unique and opulent peplum corset, featuring beads, pearls, sequins, cord and lace.
I was lucky enough to become friends with Claire during the making process of her dress and as a result she invited to her wedding day. I was 9 months at the time and my waters broke at her wedding breakfast. My son was born 3 days later!
If you are looking for something beautiful and different for your special day, drop me a message - I would love to make your bridal dreams a reality.
The main inspiration for this wedding dress was this blue and white gown, worn by Emily Blunt for Vanity Fair. Claire, the bride, added photos of the infamous Mr Pearl`s beautifully ornate corsets to her mood board as well.
As a bride, talking in images is one of the easiest ways for me to understand your vision and aesthetic. If someone says to me `dreamy` or `classic`, that can mean very different things to different people. But this gorgeous reference photo of a Dior gown gave me everything I needed to know to start sketching.
What images are on your dream wedding mood board right now?
~
#weddingdress #bespokeweddingdress #blueweddingdress #hautecouturewedding #weddinginspiration
Photography Credits on this Page
grecian dress: Iris visuals
fabrics: Rachel mills photography
fastening the back: Nathan horner
workroom pictures: altwedding.co.uk
hanging dress: kate bellinger photogrpahy