The bespoke dressmaking process
Making your bespoke wedding dress is a labour of love in four stages; consultation, design, creation and collection. Let me guide you through the bespoke dressmaking process in detail.
Initial enquiry
Your first enquiry could be through my web-form, by e-mail or telephone. I will ask about your wedding date and a what sort of dress or ensemble you would like. I am happy to answer any questions specific to your design. Then, if I have availability and think I might be able to fulfil your needs, we will make a date for a design consultation.
To find out more about my reputation visit my google review page.
I'll be happy to start the bespoke dressmaking process for your dress.
Design Consultation
The design consultation usually takes place at my shop-studio though some people opt for a video chat. In person meetings are ideal for looking at all the fabric sample books. If meeting online I can screen-share from my supplier's websites and send you samples after the meeting. You should allow a minimum of an hour for your first consultation; sometimes it may take a little longer
During the consultation we will discuss what you require and I will make notes and create quick sketches of ideas. I will be able to provide a reasonable idea of the cost of any ideas we discuss but a firm quote will be posted or emailed to you afterwards.
To book a consultation click here
Fabrics and Materials
I will advise on fabrics and materials at your consultation. I have sample books with hundreds of colours and types of fabrics to which we can refer. You can order fabrics through me or I can recommend suppliers and shops for you to visit. If you decide to purchase all or part of your materials elsewhere I can provide guidance on fabrics, weights and quantities required. I can also accompany you on a fabric shopping expedition, see the end of this page for more details.
I normally send you fabric samples and options alongside the quote letter. And once you are booked-in samples of anything missing will be provided so you can match shoes and accessories etc.
I can order extra fabric for you if you need it, perhaps for the florist, the invitations or venue decoration. I am happy to sell you fabric from my sample books even if you decide to have your order made up elsewhere!
Designing your bespoke wedding dress
If we are designing from scratch, any pictures or reference material you can bring with you to give me the flavour of what you want is immensely helpful. Sending me a pinterest board, links or attaching images to your enquiry email are all encouraged! References might be from history, bridal magazines, films, a picture of your venue, the colours of a landscape or anything that has some element of what you require. Before creating a new design for a photoshoot or for a costume I often put together a "mood board". A mood board is a collection of images that pulls together all the elements desired and conjures up an atmosphere to inspire the final design.
Pictures are especially helpful if you (like most people) are not sure of the technical or design terms for the style or details you require. Designing for someone who has no real idea or cannot explain what they want is very difficult but not impossible. It will just take me a little longer to narrow down the specifics.
Design consultations and quotes are free for the bespoke dressmaking process. Very occasionally I will ask a small fee if the design process requested goes above and beyond my usual offering.
Finalising your design and the Quotation:
After your appointment I will provide a line drawing of your design with a quotation for you to approve. There will be with notes on any styling or fabrics discussed. My quote for your bespoke wedding dress will list the materials and the making costs separately so you can easily understand which elements are costing how much. Some people get to the stage of finalising a design and putting down a deposit at the first consultation. For others it takes longer to define exactly what is required.
I will include options for any details not finalised during the consultation, for example, different sleeves, necklines or fabric choices for you to consider. I may mark some parts of the quote as only an estimate if the exact details of a design have not been finalised. Sometimes the amount of work involved (for example lots of embroidery) is not clear and a place-holder budget is allowed for that part of the work.
Below: example design and quote letter (for Lisa's 2024 wedding), bespoke dressmaking process
Making your bespoke wedding dress
All consultations and fittings take place in my shop-studio so you will be completely private and you will have my full attention during your appointment. Mum's, children, bridesmaids and friends are welcome at your fittings, but please do check beforehand as space is not infinite!
I normally carry out work with reference to the line drawing that we have agreed is the final design. But we will often confirm some elements during the fittings where it's much easier to visualise the real thing! For example, neckline depth, the placement of beading detail or the length of a hanging sleeve. Small changes rarely require a revised price of quote but I will charge for any extra time or materials needed if you change your mind on major aspects during the bespoke making process.
measuring for the bespoke dressmaking process
Every bespoke commission will have a pattern drafted especially to fit your figure. The first step is to take your measurements. I may also take a few digital photographs of you (clothed) for my own reference.
I always prefer to take the measurements myself; this means that I can make allowances for the type of figure you have, such as a short waist, low bust or rounded shoulders. If I am making items for anyone who lives too far away to attend a measuring appointment I will supply a guide to the measurements I require. I will always suggest that an experienced dressmaker takes the measurements. And I will ask you to sign a disclaimer absolving me from any problems arising from inaccurate measurements.
Small size alterations are normal during the making process for your bespoke wedding dress. I usually leave at least 2 inches of seam allowance inside the garment to allow for changes. And I always cut the hem long to allow for shoe heels. I can take no responsibility for a garment fitting if you lose or gain a lot of weight. If you plan to diet please inform me early on and we will plan the making process accordingly.
The First fitting with your bespoke wedding dress
You will need your shoes and the underwear you plan to wear on the day as early as possible in the fitting process. This is important as the shape of what goes underneath will obviously affect the clothes above! I may also ask you to attend early fittings for any corsets or petticoats for historical (and sometimes contemporary or spectacular) dresses. These foundations need to be correct before further work can be carried out.
For most wedding dresses I will make a "toile" (pronounced 'twahl'), which is a mock up of the basic elements of your design. It is made in cheaper but comparable fabric in order to check certain aspects of style and fit before using the final materials. A toile can be helpful to prevent costly mistakes. For example, if I am working with particularly expensive fabrics, to confirm ideas on sleeve length or if you have more unusual body shape.
Picture: Amy's bespoke wedding dress
The second/third/final fittings
Most bespoke commissions will need at least two fittings, and up to four or five is normal. Your final fitting will usually be about 10-14 days before your wedding to allow for any last minute weight loss/gain. I can usually accommodate earlier or later final fittings if you let me know at the design consultation.
If you are travelling a long way for fittings we can sometimes arrange to have more than one fitting inside a day or a few days.
Pictures: showing Lisa's four progressive fittings as we made her bespoke wedding dress. A toile first and then three fittings as the dress came together.
preparation
I will prepare and steam your dress so it is in perfect condition and ready to wear. I usually advocate for separate final fitting and collection dates. It is best for your bespoke wedding dress to be taken home unworn to be ready for the big day. Your commission will be ready to transport inside a suitable length gown bag on a padded hanger.
Collecting your wedding dress
We will make a 'pencilled in' picking up date at the time you first commission your order. A final date and time can be confirmed at a later fitting. When I have finished your dress you can choose to collect right away or leave it with me for storage if there are still some weeks or months until the wedding day.
Most people collect their order in person but I can also send it by secure courier. Postal prices with insurance depend on the value and weight of your order and on your location. When posted your order may need steaming upon arrival. If you are travelling overseas I can advise on packing your dress and organising for the dress to be steamed on arrival.
Photo: Kate Bellinger Photography for the bespoke dressmaking process
“Felicity listened to what I wanted, gave a clear quote and completed the alterations so nobody could see them. Clear booking system as well. Would recommend.”
Sometimes it takes a little adjustment here and there to make a wedding dress feel like it was made for you, and sometimes a dress needs a more dramatic transformation. Either way, I`m here to help.
If you`re interested in getting your dress altered for this year, I`m currently booked up until the beginning of October. So if your wedding is November onwards and your dress doesn`t feel quite right yet, drop me a message. But don`t wait too long - spaces are filling up fast.
You can always book in a no-obligation consultation with me, to see if I would be the right fit for you and your dress - link in bio.
Photography - Birdseye Photography
Isabelle thought she had found the dress she wanted for her wedding day. But her mum wanted to gift her something a bit more special for such a special day.
When I met Isabelle, she showed me the dress. It was pretty, but it was made from cheaper fabrics, and there were parts of the dress she wasn`t as keen on.
We worked together to identify what about her inspiration dress she liked, and I made sure to include all those elements in her design. And, on top of that, we also changed the parts of the inspiration dress that she didn’t like that much.
She knew she wanted colour (whereas the original dress was white), she knew she wanted shorter sleeves, and a straight neckline, instead of the sweetheart neckline the other dress had.
We came up with a pale blue silk cocktail dress, with Chantilly lace layered over top and Guipure lace trim on the waistline.
It goes to show the difference between a cheaper dress and the bespoke experience. You can love both versions of the dress, and want to wear both, but with bespoke you get to make every element tailored to your preferences.
Photography - @mirandavphoto
Throughout my years as a bespoke wedding dress maker, lace is a fabric I have worked with time and time again. And it never gets boring.
Why?
Because there are just so many different kinds, in different colours, finishes and patterns. I have books and books of lace samples from my suppliers (shout out @bridalfabrics) you could easily lose a few hours admiring.
This is just a glimpse into what can be done with lace when it comes to alternative wedding dresses. If there`s a kind of lace in this post you want to know more about, ask away in the comments and I`ll make sure to reply.
And make sure you scroll to the end to see the fabric that always gets mistaken for lace, even though it isn`t.
Which of these lace looks is your favourite?
Photographers:
1. @jessicajillphoto
2. @dinawardphotography
3. barryholder.co.uk
4. @jessicajillphoto
5. @altweddingco
6. @snappedbycatx
7. @emilyhudson.photography
8. @carolinehorne.s.photography
9. @emilyhudson.photography
Sure, my usual role is a bespoke wedding dress maker, creating beautiful and unique garments for brides looking for something a little different.
But sometimes I`m also a lighting assistant, a caterer, a last-minute-rush-to-the-shopper. That`s the fun of being a creative, working with other creatives.
This was from a styled photoshoot I organised, based on the iconic 90s film, Strictly Ballroom. I made these dazzling neon bridesmaids outfits based around the stunning costumes of Latin ballroom dancers. Our photographer really wanted the colours to pop in the atmospheric darkness of our location, so of course I volunteered myself as floor level tripod 😂
The photos turned out amazing, so it was definitely worth it!
Have you ever found yourself doing a job you never expected?
Dresses @felicitywestmacott
Photography @jessicajillphoto
Video/content @weddingstorytellerco
Venues @theoldtimberstore_se1 @malt.maltby
Florals @jemimainthewoods
Event Equipment Hire @cohire
Bridesmaid models @Lisaeggy3 @Boobzylou @oleksanacoaching
Choreography @oleksanacoaching
Hair and Make-up lead @melindabridal @melinda_grant
Hair and Make-up @beccibrushes
Jewellery @CatherineMarche
Neon Sign @thisisasignuk
Shoes @shoesbylarisa
Forget-me-nots, cornflowers, bluebells, hydrangea...
All those blooms in shades of lapis, azure and sapphire, growing up from the earth, and cascading down from the neckline - a bride enveloped in blossoming sky blue beauty.
Layers of light, fluffy tulle floating to the ground, with every petal carefully placed to create the perfect composition. Botanical and beautiful. With balloon sleeves and a wide neckline, so the sun can still kiss her shoulders.
This is a bride from a modern fairytale. Like Sleeping Beauty awakening from her slumber and taking her fate into her own hands.
And the final detail, to bring it all together? A bespoke waistcoat for the groom, with hints of the same floral elements. A happily ever after.
Photography - @rsbrown.photography.film
Location - @stanlakepark
Flowers - Nicola Hozier Flowers
#BespokeBridal #AlternativeBride #UnconventionalBride #MatureBride
"Just a very quick note from Rome to let you know how very admired your dress was. Lots of people said how beautiful it was. It really was the most beautiful dress I have ever seen. I definitely would like to work out how to potentially wear it again - I can’t bear the thought that I’ll never wear it again!
Thank you again - you truly are an alchemist!"
All the quiet hours designing, cutting, sewing and hand-stitching were all worth it, just to hear a bride so happy with her wedding dress.
Want to see what this dreamy dress looked like on the day? I`ll be posting the official wedding shots later this week. You won`t want to miss this one, I promise you. This gown has quickly become a new favourite of mine 💙
#bespokeweddingdress
Photography Credits on this Page
grecian dress: Iris visuals
fabrics: Rachel mills photography
fastening the back: Nathan horner
workroom pictures: altwedding.co.uk
hanging dress: kate bellinger photogrpahy