The bespoke dressmaking process
Making your bespoke wedding dress is a labour of love in four stages; consultation, design, creation and collection. Let me guide you through the bespoke dressmaking process in detail.
Initial enquiry
Your first enquiry could be through my web-form, by e-mail or telephone. I will ask about your wedding date and a what sort of dress or ensemble you would like. I am happy to answer any questions specific to your design. Then, if I have availability and think I might be able to fulfil your needs, we will make a date for a design consultation.
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I'll be happy to start the bespoke dressmaking process for your dress.
Design Consultation
The design consultation usually takes place at my shop-studio though some people opt for a video chat. In person meetings are ideal for looking at all the fabric sample books. If meeting online I can screen-share from my supplier's websites and send you samples after the meeting. You should allow a minimum of an hour for your first consultation; sometimes it may take a little longer
During the consultation we will discuss what you require and I will make notes and create quick sketches of ideas. I will be able to provide a reasonable idea of the cost of any ideas we discuss but a firm quote will be posted or emailed to you afterwards.
To book a consultation click here
Fabrics and Materials
I will advise on fabrics and materials at your consultation. I have sample books with hundreds of colours and types of fabrics to which we can refer. You can order fabrics through me or I can recommend suppliers and shops for you to visit. If you decide to purchase all or part of your materials elsewhere I can provide guidance on fabrics, weights and quantities required. I can also accompany you on a fabric shopping expedition, see the end of this page for more details.
I normally send you fabric samples and options alongside the quote letter. And once you are booked-in samples of anything missing will be provided so you can match shoes and accessories etc.
I can order extra fabric for you if you need it, perhaps for the florist, the invitations or venue decoration. I am happy to sell you fabric from my sample books even if you decide to have your order made up elsewhere!
Designing your bespoke wedding dress
If we are designing from scratch, any pictures or reference material you can bring with you to give me the flavour of what you want is immensely helpful. Sending me a pinterest board, links or attaching images to your enquiry email are all encouraged! References might be from history, bridal magazines, films, a picture of your venue, the colours of a landscape or anything that has some element of what you require. Before creating a new design for a photoshoot or for a costume I often put together a "mood board". A mood board is a collection of images that pulls together all the elements desired and conjures up an atmosphere to inspire the final design.
Pictures are especially helpful if you (like most people) are not sure of the technical or design terms for the style or details you require. Designing for someone who has no real idea or cannot explain what they want is very difficult but not impossible. It will just take me a little longer to narrow down the specifics.
Design consultations and quotes are free for the bespoke dressmaking process. Very occasionally I will ask a small fee if the design process requested goes above and beyond my usual offering.
Finalising your design and the Quotation:
After your appointment I will provide a line drawing of your design with a quotation for you to approve. There will be with notes on any styling or fabrics discussed. My quote for your bespoke wedding dress will list the materials and the making costs separately so you can easily understand which elements are costing how much. Some people get to the stage of finalising a design and putting down a deposit at the first consultation. For others it takes longer to define exactly what is required.
I will include options for any details not finalised during the consultation, for example, different sleeves, necklines or fabric choices for you to consider. I may mark some parts of the quote as only an estimate if the exact details of a design have not been finalised. Sometimes the amount of work involved (for example lots of embroidery) is not clear and a place-holder budget is allowed for that part of the work.
Below: example design and quote letter (for Lisa's 2024 wedding), bespoke dressmaking process
Making your bespoke wedding dress
All consultations and fittings take place in my shop-studio so you will be completely private and you will have my full attention during your appointment. Mum's, children, bridesmaids and friends are welcome at your fittings, but please do check beforehand as space is not infinite!
I normally carry out work with reference to the line drawing that we have agreed is the final design. But we will often confirm some elements during the fittings where it's much easier to visualise the real thing! For example, neckline depth, the placement of beading detail or the length of a hanging sleeve. Small changes rarely require a revised price of quote but I will charge for any extra time or materials needed if you change your mind on major aspects during the bespoke making process.
measuring for the bespoke dressmaking process
Every bespoke commission will have a pattern drafted especially to fit your figure. The first step is to take your measurements. I may also take a few digital photographs of you (clothed) for my own reference.
I always prefer to take the measurements myself; this means that I can make allowances for the type of figure you have, such as a short waist, low bust or rounded shoulders. If I am making items for anyone who lives too far away to attend a measuring appointment I will supply a guide to the measurements I require. I will always suggest that an experienced dressmaker takes the measurements. And I will ask you to sign a disclaimer absolving me from any problems arising from inaccurate measurements.
Small size alterations are normal during the making process for your bespoke wedding dress. I usually leave at least 2 inches of seam allowance inside the garment to allow for changes. And I always cut the hem long to allow for shoe heels. I can take no responsibility for a garment fitting if you lose or gain a lot of weight. If you plan to diet please inform me early on and we will plan the making process accordingly.
The First fitting with your bespoke wedding dress
You will need your shoes and the underwear you plan to wear on the day as early as possible in the fitting process. This is important as the shape of what goes underneath will obviously affect the clothes above! I may also ask you to attend early fittings for any corsets or petticoats for historical (and sometimes contemporary or spectacular) dresses. These foundations need to be correct before further work can be carried out.
For most wedding dresses I will make a "toile" (pronounced 'twahl'), which is a mock up of the basic elements of your design. It is made in cheaper but comparable fabric in order to check certain aspects of style and fit before using the final materials. A toile can be helpful to prevent costly mistakes. For example, if I am working with particularly expensive fabrics, to confirm ideas on sleeve length or if you have more unusual body shape.
Picture: Amy's bespoke wedding dress
The second/third/final fittings
Most bespoke commissions will need at least two fittings, and up to four or five is normal. Your final fitting will usually be about 10-14 days before your wedding to allow for any last minute weight loss/gain. I can usually accommodate earlier or later final fittings if you let me know at the design consultation.
If you are travelling a long way for fittings we can sometimes arrange to have more than one fitting inside a day or a few days.
Pictures: showing Lisa's four progressive fittings as we made her bespoke wedding dress. A toile first and then three fittings as the dress came together.
preparation
I will prepare and steam your dress so it is in perfect condition and ready to wear. I usually advocate for separate final fitting and collection dates. It is best for your bespoke wedding dress to be taken home unworn to be ready for the big day. Your commission will be ready to transport inside a suitable length gown bag on a padded hanger.
Collecting your wedding dress
We will make a 'pencilled in' picking up date at the time you first commission your order. A final date and time can be confirmed at a later fitting. When I have finished your dress you can choose to collect right away or leave it with me for storage if there are still some weeks or months until the wedding day.
Most people collect their order in person but I can also send it by secure courier. Postal prices with insurance depend on the value and weight of your order and on your location. When posted your order may need steaming upon arrival. If you are travelling overseas I can advise on packing your dress and organising for the dress to be steamed on arrival.
Photo: Kate Bellinger Photography for the bespoke dressmaking process
A little look into the process of dip dying this gorgeous wedding dress.
The dress itself was chiffon and sequined lace, and my job was to make it just a little less white and a whole lot more fun.
This gradient has seven different colours; buttercup yellow, tangerine orange, cherry red, magenta, grape purple and sky blue.
I added each layer of colour gradually. Instead of marking out where each colour begins and ends, I used my skills and decades of experience to measure by eye, judging when the balance of colours and the blend of gradients was just right.
Since the dress was layered, I had to build this ombre effect twice, and make sure they matched. And then I split the rainbow and dyed one shoulder bow one half, and the other side, the other half.
Which colour is your favourite?
If you want to see more photos of this dress on Bryony`s wedding day, I`ll be posting a full set in a few days` time, so why not follow me for more whimsical bridal content?
Photography - @alexandra_weddings
If you`re living in the UK, even a lower income means you`re one of the wealthiest people on the planet. Even if you work full time on (the UK) minimum wage, you`re in roughly the top 4% of global earners. I know, it definitely doesn`t feel like it.
When we spend money on sites like Temu or Shein, that money doesn`t go to the workers making the clothes. It goes to a handful of billionaire owners and they don`t need more unearned money.
But there are simple things you can do, if that feels like something that doesn`t sit right with you.
Choosing a local maker, a small business, or even a second-hand piece keeps money circulating in real communities, going directly to the person who made it. It means sometimes being more selective about what you buy. Like buy fewer clothes, for example, but choosing things that are better quality and more likely to last anyway.
When life feels so hectic and stressful, it`s hard to give any thought to things like this, but every little thought that leads to action is a change that makes a difference.
What are some changes you`ve been making to try and combat this capitalist hellscape?
#rickandmorty #everythingsfine
It`s definitely the year of the dress coats!
Lizzie wanted the perfect outfit for her daughter`s wedding. Something that felt special but quiet in its elegance. So we went for a simple dress in a floral silk crepe paired with a coat made from silver-green silk mikado.
I`m in love with this shimmering sage colour, and the matching cord I used to trim everything with. Not to mention those beautiful frog fastenings (I love making a frog fastening 🐸).
It`s kind of niche, but I want to know if you`re a fan of the frog fastenings too? Drop a 🐸 in the comments, let`s find out how many of us there are!
The heat from this season of Bridgerton is really bringing to the forefront the beauty and chemistry of an older romance.
There`s something extra special about finding someone later on in life, as Lady Violet is showing us all. Someone who has lived a whole life before meeting you, who has their own baggage and their own wisdom. Combining all that with all your own experiences to make something truly profound.
It`s always a joy to hear from older brides who have found their own Lord (or Lady) Marcus. So of course I had to celebrate all the gorgeous mature brides who have chosen me to help them look exactly the way they want to when their love stories took centre stage.
Are you watching Lady Violet`s storyline? 💜
Photography:
Adventurous - @t.frost.photography
Vibrant - @lucysugdensmith
Dramatic - @georginapiperphoto_
Unique - @smilingtigerstudiosuk
Stylish - @greggbrownphotography
Elegant - @christellephoto
Colourful - n/a
Romantic - @duncanireland
Beautiful - @duck_photo
Orange, teal and forest green. Bold? Absolutely. Perfect? Without a doubt.
Jane knew exactly what she wanted. She was very sure about her colour palette; orange, copper, teal and green. Such a bold combination, but they work brilliantly together.
Jane had a strong vision for what she wanted, but still changed her mind as we went along, as she refined how she wanted to achieve that vision.
In the end I made an elegant four-piece ensemble in jewel tones, including a wedding coat, two pairs of trousers, and a corset top. Jane originally considered a skirt, but eventually listened to her gut and went for trousers, since she said, she never wears skirts in her usual life anyway. That`s the kind of authenticity to self that I love to see - making the design choices that make sense for you.
If you`ve got big ideas for your big day, drop me a message and let`s make something marvellous!
Photography - @lucysugdensmith
#bespokeweddingdress #maturebride #bridalboutique #bridalseparates #alternativebride
"Your talent, creativity and attention to detail made this piece so much more than just part of a dress – it became a beautiful expression of who I am. We were completely overwhelmed and deeply impressed."
For this dip dye overskirt, Marina and I went through a few different colour combinations before we landed on something she felt was perfect. I`m always happy to create as many samples as a bride needs to feel really sure about her choice. Originally Marina wanted the gradient to start at yellow, but after I sent her the first sample, and seeing it in real life, she decided the yellow was a little too yellow, and we went for a lime green instead. That way, she still got the brightness she wanted, but staying within a more restricted colour palette.
Then I get to begin layering all the colours. From that chartreuse, finishing on a deep, forest green, and then adding a layer of fine silver glitter on top. I think the sparkle is a beautiful touch. After that, I packaged it up carefully and sent to Switzerland, where Marina lives. And finally, her dip dye overskirt got to do its job - adding colour, style and personality to her wedding dress.
If you`re a bride who wants to bring dopamine dressing to your wedding day, drop me a DM! There are so many fabulous ways of adding colour to your day, and I would love to help.
Photography Credits on this Page
grecian dress: Iris visuals
fabrics: Rachel mills photography
fastening the back: Nathan horner
workroom pictures: altwedding.co.uk
hanging dress: kate bellinger photogrpahy