Ivory silk crepe and lace wedding dress

charlie 19 vintage car traditional wedding ivory silk dress and veil

Charlotte commissioned an ivory silk crepe and lace wedding dress. I designed her dress in layered silk satin and Georgette with a dramatic low back filled with beaded lace.

Official Wedding Pictures by Sarah McDonnell

Design Details

Charlotte’s dress has a fitted and boned bodice with a sweet heart neckline below a yoke of beaded lace. I designed the back of the main dress to plunge low filled to the neckline with beaded lace, and trimmed with satin covered buttons. I bound the higher boat-neckline of the lace and the armholes in matching satin. The skirt is fitted over the hips before flaring into a gentle fishtail with ivory chiffon layered over ‘Champenoise’ coloured satin. I cut the skirt hem to reveal the layering with the shine of the satin peaking out beneath the matt georgette. The ‘reveal’ is deeper at the back where the skirt flares into a train, which came with a bustle to be hooked up in the evening.

charlie 2 low back wedding dress with beaded lace and button detail

Detail of the back of the silk crepe and lace wedding dress. The main dress cut away in a curved shape below exquisite ivory lace, specially beaded to order in Italy. I sewed on tiny buttons (covered in the same champenoise silk satin as the main under-layer of the dress) to highlight the centre back seam. The dress actually fastens at the side with a concealed zip.

Original Design sketch for a silk crepe and lace wedding dress

design sketch princess line low back lace wedding dress
charlie 11 country wedding classic dress with ivory satin and chiffon

charlie 6 soft fishtail princess line bespoke wedding dress
charlie 10 hitched hooked bustle up train sleeveless bridal gown

charlie 3 bespoke wedding gown and veil with train church wedding

I also made Charlotte’s bespoke veil. I used ivory tulle, single layer on a comb. Worn like this veils are sometimes called ‘Spanish or Mantilla Style’.

charlie 4 single tier ivory veil on comb made to order

charlie 17 classic bride in ivory and buttermilk silk dress and veil


Charlotte wrote: Thank you so much – I am soooo happy with the dress, cannot tell you. You are truly amazing and thank you for everything. Charlie xx

Thank you so much for everything. The dress is absolutely wonderful and you have you have been amazing. You are so talented and I am so lucky to have found you. I genuinely meant it – if you ever want to borrow the dress for a show, please only ask. Let’s keep in touch and, again, thank you for everything. Lots of love Charlie xx

charlie 7 lace high neckline wedding dress with ribbon edge detail

charlie 1 silk satin wedding dress and veil hanging up before the big day

charlie 12 low back lace dress with bustled up train on button

Charlotte’s train was made with a bustle-up so it could be hooked up for dancing or when she walked outside.

charlie 8 bride and bridesmaids in royal blue custom made to measure dress
charlie 9 layered hem on silk dress with diamante shoes

This picture of Charlotte’s pretty shoes also shows off the graduated layers of hem on her skirt.

charlie 5 sweetheart neckline boned soft matt silk georgette wedding dress

Making Charlotte’s Dress

The lace that Charlotte chose on the page from my sample books.

charlie 16 toile practice run pictures for custom wedding dress

The first fitting is always in the ‘toile’ or practice run made up in cheap fabrics to perfect the fit and style before cutting the expensive silks and lace.

charlie 14 half made dress with low back flesh organza insertion

First fitting in the ‘real’ fabrics which look very yellow in the electric light. Here the flesh coloured organza which will support the lace back and yoke is being pinned into the main dress to sit as flush as possible. Progress towards her silk crepe and lace wedding dress

To creating the lace yoke front and back meant I carefully cut the lace so the pattern would lie pleasingly and symmetrically in the dress design. I dyed silk organza to match Charlotte’s skin and placed it behind the lace to support the delicate fabric

charlie 22 sewing on the buttons silk ivory lace

Buttons covered in silk satin were hand sewn to the back centre seam.

charlie 23 something blue hidden by the train wrist loop

The wrist loop sewn to the underside of the train meant Charlotte could hold up the train easily when she needed to. A hidden ‘something blue’ is always sewn in somewhere on all Felicity Westmacott’s creations.

charlie 26 buttons all down back on low back silk and lace dress

At Charlotte’s final fitting, detail of the lace back.

charlie 24 finished dress steamed and ready to do with beaded lace yoke

charlie 27 neckline detail on sweetheart and high lace sleeveless wedding dress

At Charlotte’s final fitting, detail of the front lace yoke and neckline.

charlie 25 detail of beaded lace at neckline with satin bound edge beads sequins

Close up of the beaded lace on the finished dress

charlie 20 fitting room picture deep ivory matt silk and lace wedding dress

A happy Charlotte at her final fitting in the finished dress and veil.

To see another classic ivory wedding dress with lace head to Rikki’s wedding dress

To book your own appointment to talk about having a dress made head to my contact page

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Felicity Westmacott

I write about all aspects of weddings, dressmaking, fashion history, and the human relation to clothing. I welcome comments and debate.

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The rest of the dress was kept classic and simple, so that this design element would really shine (literally)! I used an array of styles and shapes of beads in peacock colours - blood red, deep garnet, teal, vibrant purple and sparkling gold. I then played around with design ideas, taking inspiration from the art deco era, incorporating a lot of symmetry and geometry. Once I was happy with the layout, I transferred the design onto the fabric and began many many many hours of hand-beading. 

It's always a relief when I'm finally finished with a project like this, to be able to step back and see the finished dress and think "ah, that was completely worth it." 😌

If you want to see what this dress looked like on the day of the wedding, have a look at my previous post 🌿

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Since 1753, when the Marriage Act first came into existence, UK marriage law has come a long way. Some things have taken much longer than they should have (I'm looking at you, 1991 and 2013, 2023). But there's still more than can be done. The association of @independentcelebrants is campaigning for the UK government to follow the recommendations of the 2022 wedding law reform report.

"At least 10,000 wedding ceremonies a year in England and Wales are led by independent celebrants. These ceremonies are perfectly legal to hold, but as it stands a celebrant cannot perform a legally binding marriage – that part must be done separately, meaning added inconvenience and cost for couples."

I'm all about supporting couples to have the wedding day of their dream, and that rarely includes having to find time and money to go to the registry office.

If you want to help with this, then you can spread awareness! Share this post, or make your own. Talk about it with friends and family. And once you've done that, you can always get in touch with your local MP. The Independent Celebrants website has a PDF guide to help you with how to go about doing that.

Is this an issue you're aware of? Is there anything I've missed out?

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emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in
from design to completionbespoke wedding dressesFelicity Westmacott
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in