Lace Wedding Dress Styles

Working with lace is one of my favourite aspects of wedding dress making. In this post I talk about different lace wedding dress styles. There are so many different types of lace, with evocative names; delicate ‘Chantilly’, bold ‘Guipure’, traditional ‘corded’ or modern ’embroidered’, to name but a few. I have more than 400 samples in my books from lace making regions all over the world. Choose from French or Italian lace, lace from the Far East or closer to home, the traditional lace making town of Nottingham! Lace can be used as flat fabric with the beautiful scalloped edging trimming hems and necklines, or the motifs can be carefully cut and hand appliquéd onto plain fabric to magnificent effect.

A selection of real brides and photoshoot dresses featuring lace fabric or detailing.

Corded lace

Corded lace might floral or geometric, what sets is apart if the use of thin cord to create raised outlines to elements of the design. This creates a 3D surface and, if not all of the lace is corded, can create bolder and background sections.

Vanessa’s bespoke lace wedding dress was made using corded lace for the bodice and as appliqué on the silk skirt. The supporting tulle for her shoulders was hand-dyed to match her skin tone perfectly. I added pearl and diamanté details to her lace by hand for sparkle and texture.

Motif lace

Some lace designs feature discreet ‘motifs’ with empty sections in between. The motifs might be a regular size or graduate from larger to small across the width of the fabric. Motif lace can make the design appear to float against the skin or allow pretty support fabrics to show through between the floral sections.

Wedding Dress and Veil for Issie: Issie’s dress was made with a boned satin bodice with pretty lace overlay. Long sleeves and a boat neckline were trimmed with a pretty scalloped edging.

Wedding Dress and Veil for Sofia: Classic boned bodice with sweetheart neckline and bold corded lace over-lay extending up to a higher boat neck. This lace wedding dress style is a classic design that will not date.

Embroidered tulle

There are many types of fabric referred to as lace that are not really lace from a technical perspective (lace is made in a particular way). But by the non-sewist they get pulled in under the label lace anyway as they look so similar and get used in much the same way. The most common is embroidered tulle. A base of tulle fabric is machine embroidered in the same or contrasting colours to create a sheer, lace-like design. It’s often cheaper and stronger than real lace.

Ivory beaded lace and orange satin dress for Clare: Clare commissioned a flamboyant 1950’s style dress made in burnt orange satin and ivory chiffon with beaded tulle-lace for her Florida wedding.

Official wedding photographs by www.gingermidgett.com

The fitted and well boned bodice had a sweetheart neckline framed with straps that narrowed on the shoulder. The bodice was made in burnt orange satin layered with scrolling beaded lace. Pretty scalloped edging was used at the neckline and to highlight Clare’s waist. The back fastened with a lace-up back of wide ivory ribbon through loops over an orange modesty panel. This is a fun and flirty example among may lace wedding dress styles.

Forest wildflower wedding dress: For this dress, I wanted to take inspiration from nature. The star of this dress is the beautiful embroidered tulle, with flowers and leaves springing from the waist and growing organically up and down the body.

Photography Lucy King Photography

My Morticia Addams wedding dress is one of my bestsellers. I designed it using layers of black and silver floral lace with a beaded tulle laid over the top. Beaded motifs and trim finish the look with a lot of detail.

You can see another version made for another bride here.

Photography – Giovanni Logrono Photography and Lex Fleming

My periwinkle blue wedding dress was created for a photoshoot and is now available to order as a bespoke item, or you can also buy the photoshoot sample from my Etsy shop. The blue and white floral applique tulle created a lace-like appearance on the bodice.

Photography by @chloemartin_photography_

I made Katie’s glorious pink wedding dress using a layer of floral embroidered tulle. The tulle had a pattern of growing pink roses graduating from one side of the fabric to the other. We placed it so the flowers appeared thickly at the hem and faded away up to Katie’s waist.

Photography – Zara Davis

Lace Applique

Lace is ideal for being used as an applique fabric on top of other fabrics. Elements can be delicately hand cut and hand sewn in carefully considered placement onto your wedding dress. The pretty scallop edging that comes with most lace fabrics is often used to edge necklines, hems and waistlines. Leaves and flowers might be placed to highlight different parts of the dress with hand beading added as well.

Waterfall skirt with applique lace detail for Hannah: This was a ‘restyle’ rather than made from scratch. She found the almost perfect dress in a bridal boutique but brought it to me to have the skirt changed to the organza waterfall loveliness she craved. I took lace motifs from the original skirt and hand sewed them to the new sections to help blend the dress into one.

Official photography by Adebayo Deru

Wedding Dress and Veil for Lauren Lauren’s wedding dress was made from matt satin and hand embellished with delicate chantilly lace patterns in hand applique. At the back the train was made from over lapping petal panels inspired by Lauren’s love of Kate Middleton’s wedding dress. This was also the inspiration for the lavish quantities of hand lace embellishment all over the bodice, cascading over the train and edging the skirt all round. This is a spectacular example among many lace wedding dress styles.

Wedding pictures by Bumble and Brown

I used delicate cotton lace as the applique for Nicola’s sunset dipdye dress. There was lace used over the whole bodice and then pieces cut and hand sewn onto the join between the different kinds of fabric on the skirt.

Photography – Thomas Frost

I used embroidered tulle to embellish Rae’s golden-green wedding coat. The background tulle was carefully cut away leaving just the pattern of leaves and flowers, as if the coat had been embroidered directly. In the second picture you can the work in progress with pins and background tulle on the right not yet removed.

Rae’s dress also featured lace-like embroidered tulle in dark forest green. The tulle was left on the bodice parts but cut away from some of the leaves as the crept over the join onto the skirt.

Photography – Smiling Tiger Studios

Illusion Lace applique

I love cutting out lace and hand sewing it to tulle or fabric. When it is appliquéd to nude colour tulle it creates the illusion of the lace motifs floating directly on the skin of the wearer. There are some lace fabrics made and sold as illusion lace, but more often it is done by hand so that the placement of the design can be controlled and made to fit the dress being made.

Illusion back lace wedding dress for Helen: The bodice was a traditional sweetheart shape, lightly boned but totally cut away at the back. A simple straight skirt and train balanced the drama of the sheer tulle and floral corded lace applique back and sleeves.

Official photography by alextentersphotography

Wedding Dress and Veil for Alexandra: Palest blush satin with ivory organza and tulle layered on top with lace applique.

Official photography by Shannon Lafayette

The wedding dress I designed for this castle photoshoot included lace applique to the skirt and bodice panels and also illusion lace sleeves.

Photography: Caroline Horne Suffolk Photography

Guipure Lace

Wedding Dress for Ayesha: Stunning dress in winter white duchess satin and bold guipure lace on an illusion bodice for dark skin.

Official photography by DSVisuals

Guipure lace is a distinctive style of lace made without the netting or support tulle between the pattern motifs. It can feel much more ‘open’ due skin of fabric that shows through the gaps. Guipure lace is usually chunky and bold in design compared to more delicate lace styles. It comes with large or small patterns and can be beaded or plain.

Wedding Dress for Barbara: Edwardian inspired dress made from duchess satin and beaded Guipure lace. The dress is trimmed with gathered lace flounces and groups of pink flowers. Made in three pieces the lace over bodice has long sleeves and a high collar. The train attached with poppas and was trimmed with matching lace flounces

Photography by Michelle Bean

Wedding Dress and Coat for Catherine: Catherine’s bodice was duchess satin with a guipure lace over-lay. I trimmed her neckline with guipure lace motifs of star shaped flowers to echo the detail on her veil.

Traditional silk georgette and guipure lace wedding dress for Izzy: Izzy’s dress was created to be simple and flattering with pretty lace and butterfly detail. The square neckline and cap sleeves were modest and feminine. Lace applique highlighted Izzy’s waist and the lace-up fastening gave a detail focus from the back.

Wedding pictures by Sebastian Lomas

Scallop lace trims

You can also buy lace trims, which are narrow bands of lace instead of a whole width of fabric. This is really useful when a bride would like a touch of lace but we don’t want to waste a whole metre of fabric just to cut off the scallop edging. The edging trims come in al width, colours and styles of lace including corded, chantilly, beaded and double edge.

Photoshoot: Phoenix Dipdye: Detail of corded lace edging with scallop used on the neckline to the bodice of my Phoenix dip-dye wedding dress. This is a subtle example among lace wedding dress styles.

Photography: Jessica Jill Partridge,

Wedding Dress and Birdcage Veil for Faye: Faye’s dress has a fitted and heavily boned bodice with a sweetheart neckline edged with pleated black tulle and beaded lace to soften the line.

Official Wedding pictures by Allan Breeze

My Downton Abbey inspired wedding dress was made with tiered silk georgette and wide scallop edge lace for the skirt.

Photographer: @neliprahova

The lace that Isabelle chose for her pale blue wedding dress featured a wide scallop edge that I used in three tiers for the skirt of the dress. The rest of the lace, with floral motifs was used on the bodice and trimmed with a narrow guipure scallop edging to highlight Isabell’s waistline.

Embroidered Wedding Dress for Karen: Simple modern wedding dress in ivory silk dupion with contrast purple silk detail. Hand embroidered butterflies in silk thread and lace applique complete the picture.

Photoshoot: City Burlesque Wedding: Ivory duchess satin dress with lace applique detail.

Photography by jessicajillphotography

Wedding Dress for Aine: Aine commissioned a 1950s style wedding dress made up in white taffeta.

Wedding photography by Michael Dillon

The dress has a fitted and boned bodice with shaped neckline and invisible zip back closure. The flared, knee length skirt has soft white tulle peeking out below. Both the waistline and neckline are decorated with white and silver lace and hand beading.

Wedding dress for Julia: Elegant dress made in gold silk duchess satin and rose gold lace.

Official photography by sophieduckworthphotography.com

The dress has a fitted and boned bodice with a plunge neckline fading to narrow straps. Pleated fabric in an asymmetric design emphasises Julia’s waist. Rose gold lace sleeves are trimmed with beaded scalloped edging. A mixed metallic lace edging is also used inside the neckline and on the hip hand beaded with crystals and seed beads.

Wedding Dress for Liz: Made in teal shot silk Liz’s dress has a boned bodice with ruching to the hip and a wide off the shoulder neckline. The skirt falls in graduated tiers of waterfall frills. Hand applique of teal lace adds sparkle and texture to the neckline and skirt.

Vintage and antique lace

Lace has been made for hundreds of years. First by hand in small pieces using pins and cushions for the support. Later on looms with some of the first ‘programming’ techniques to produce the patterns. And in recent times using computerised industrial techniques to bring costs down. Dresses from many eras have used lace and a vintage dress can be a unique source for pretty lace to use on an upcycled wedding dress.

I made Rachel’s Edwardian inspired wedding dress using real antique lace from the 1910’s era. The Irish lace was found in the form on two antique stoles. One was used to cretae the cross over bodice and sleeves, the other was used as the train.

Photography – Darren Kirwan⁠

Chantilly Lace

Chantilly lace is a distinctive style of lace that is exceptionally fine and delicate. The designs are usually very traditional and floral. The word ‘chantilly’ is also used to refer to a type of cream that is light and fluffy with a little sugar added for a sweet taste.

Wedding Dress and Veil for Harriet: delicate French ‘chantilly’ lace on the bodice with silk organza skirt.

Photography by http://www.barryholder.co.uk

Chantilly lace wedding Dress for Emily:  This dress was made from layers of silk satin, chiffon and delicate beaded lace. Made with a fitted and boned bodice with beaded Parisian lace. The sweetheart neckline and straps are trimmed with scalloped edging. The lace extends over the full skirt in handkerchief points below a silk satin sash.

Official photography by www.jeaphotography.co.uk

The skirt is made of floaty silk chiffon divided at the front to reveal the shine of the satin below.

I made Janna’s blush wedding dress in layers of tulle with delicate chantilly lace as rhe top layer of her bodice. This type of lace is so fine we were even able to add pleats and ruching in the lace instelf and have the dress remain lightwieght.

Official Photographer: Lasting Impressions by Lucy

Metallic Lace

Gold and silver lace is usually quite costly but can be used to spectacular effect. Some lace also comes with metallic threads running through a more neutral base colour.

Wedding Dress for Felicity (my own): My dress was made with a boned bodice in green silk with a gold lace overlay. The bodice has a pointed waistline, sweetheart neckline, shaped straps and a peplum at the back. The bodice fastened at the back with with two rows of cover buttons and loops. The full skirt was made in gold silk with contrast green silk waterfall at the back and worn over a hoop and netting. I also had a gold lace bolero.

Photoshoot: Frost on the Leaves: Silver lace dress with silk chiffon flares skirt and optional lining. This dress is for sale as a pre-loved photoshoot sample from my Etsy shop.

Photography: Jessica Jill Partridge,

Antique Silver beaded lace dress for Claire: Claire commissioned a light and elegant dress made in layered ivory silk dupion and organza with silver beaded lace applique. This lace wedding dress style is perfect for mid size brides like Claire.

Official photographs by www.rubielovephotography.co.uk

The main dress was made of ivory silk dupion with a fitted and boned bodice and sweetheart neckline. Beaded antique-silver lace was hand sewn to the bodice and creeps upwards on the sheer organza to create the shape of embellished straps. I added extra hand beading and Swarovski crystals on the bodice area, especially on the neckline and straps.

This wedding dress was made in shot lilac taffeta and appliquéd with silver lace. The photoshoot sample is for sale through my Etsy shop.

Photography – The Image Cella

10 years after my own wedding day I used left over scraps of the gold lace from my wedding dress to make this pink dress as a celebration dress to wear to my anniversary party.

Photography – Caroline Horne Suffolk Photography

I used several types of lace and embroidered tulle on the design for this Labyrinth inspired wedding dress. In this picture you can see the delicate silver lace that was hand appliqued onto the back of the bodice, partly on iuulsion tulle, partly on the back bodice and also over the join onto the skirt.

Photography by flemingphoto.co.uk

Beaded lace

Many types of lace can be bought with beading already applied. Beads might be small and delicate or bold with pearls, Swarovski crystals and sequins.

From a dressmaker’s perspective beaded lace is a mixed blessing. It is certainly more cost effective for my clients to choose pre-beaded lace than to have be apply hand beading to large areas of fabric. But it it also very labour intensive to work with beaded lace as I have to remove the beads along all the sewing lines and then replace any gaps at the end.

Wedding Dress for Charlie: Charlotte commissioned a dress in layered silk satin and Georgette with a dramatic low back filled with beaded lace.

Official Wedding Pictures by Sarah McDonnell

Wedding Dress for Nicola: Simple v-neck bodice, lightly boned with beaded lace over-lay. Draped crepe silk satin skirt with lace panel train to echo the bodice.

Bespoke modest lace wedding dress: The finished dress had a fitted and boned bodice with modest round neckline and short sleeves. The dress was fitted to the upper hip and then flared gently to the floor. The whole dress was covered with ivory corded lace and heavily embellished with sequins and pearls.

Official Wedding pictures by Chris Legg

Wedding Dress for Amanda: Regency style ‘Empire-line’ wedding dress made in pale gold silk satin with an ivory/gold beaded lace top layer.

Photographs with kind permission from Paul Johnson pjp photography

The forest green beading on a leaf embroidered tulle base formed a lace-like fabric that I used to create this photoshoot dress for a theme ‘jewel bright wedding dress ideas’.

Photography – Caroline Horne Suffolk Photography

Scallop edge lace

Most lace fabrics come with a pretty edging attached down each side with a scallop design. This edging is usually cut off and re-applied around the curved edges of the hem or neckline of wedding dresses. This create a soft edge that matches the rest of the lace.

Wedding Dress for Reeta: Reeta commissioned a plunge back dress in buttermilk silk satin and ivory corded lace.

Official photographs by www.photofactorysite.com

Gold Lace Hijab Wedding Dress: This is a beautiful gold lace hijab wedding dress, accentuated with yellow crystals and scalloped lace. I designed and made this fully bespoke look for a bride for her interfaith wedding.

Nottingham Lace

Fabric mills in Nottingham in the north of England still produce traditional ‘Nottingham lace’. This comes in all types of lace fabric as the name only refers to the place of origin, not a lace style. Nottingham lace is very high quality and can be expensive as they still use old lace looms that have been creating beautiful lace for over a hundred years.

Wedding Dress for Kate: Kate commissioned a soft floaty gown in ivory silk satin and silk georgette with touches of Nottingham lace.

Cotton lace

Most modern lace is made of man-made fibres but a few fabric mills still create more traditional cotton lace fabrics. Cotton lace is often a bolder design as the cotton fibres create a slightly thicker and more textured lace.

Wedding Dress and Ties for Rebecca: A beautiful 1950 s style wedding dress with delicate cream cotton lace over Autumnal golden-orange silk.

Photography by Gregg Brown http://www.greggbrownweddings.com

Wedding Dress and Jacket for Angela: in oyster silk duchess satin and cotton chantilly lace. Vintage styling and opulent fabrics made this design very special indeed.

Photography bywww.christellephoto.com

Wedding Dress for Vicki: Vicki commissioned a dress in ivory soft satin and Georgette with a cowl back and hand appliquéd cotton lace.

Official photographs by Vivien Woods

All over lace

Some lace fabrics have an ‘all over’ design. The floral or scrolling elements fill the whole fabric with no large net-like gaps. Many brides like this sort of lace when the dress will be entirely covered with lace.

Wedding Dress for Madeleine: Madeleine commissioned a slim fitting wedding dress in ivory lace over duchess satin.

Wedding Dress for Karen: Karen commissioned a beautiful dress in layers of ivory lace and satin with beaded neckline detail.

Good Value Lace

Not all lace is expensive. Some lace fabrics are surprisingly good value and can be bought for prices below £30 per metre. And id the dress we are making only needs a metre or a metre and a half of lace this can mean adding lace to your wedding dress is not a expensive addition.

Wedding dress for Clare: was made in rose pink duchess-satin with a fitted and boned bodice with a sweetheart neckline. A layer of matching lace extended over the bodice and up to a boat neckline at the front and v-neck at the back. Half cap sleeves and the back neckline were both finished with pretty scalloped edging. This is a pretty example among may lace wedding dress styles.