Ethereal lace and chiffon cowl back wedding dress

cowl back wedding dress with train silk georgette and satin

Vicki commissioned a chiffon cowl back wedding dress in ivory soft satin and Georgette with hand appliquéd lace.

Official photographs by Vivien Woods

A short video of Vikki’s dress being worn here: Vicki’s Dress

The dress has and empire line bodice, lightly boned with a sweetheart neckline and shaped straps. The skirt was made of layered satin and Georgette split at centre front to reveal the contrast fabric beneath. A train flowed out at the back and could be hooked up for dancing. The back bodice was cut away and filled with delicate cotton lace, framed by a satin cowl draping from the shoulders. More lace was cut and hand appliqued to the front bodice and all around the edge of the back opening to blend the join between fabrics.

confetti shot bespoke wedding dress princess line
 hand lace applique work on duchess satin bodice

Detail of the lace hand appliquéd to the front bodice of the chiffon cowl back wedding dress. Some edges were left loose to create a soft and fluttering effect.

ivory silk chiffon train and cowl back
church wedding romantic made to measure wedding dress
wrist loop on couture wedding dress long train
ivory silk wedding dress layered chiffon and satin with lace and straps
silk and lace wedding dress ivory silk chiffon and lace

 Thank you letter

testimonial thank you letter dressmaker

Vicki wrote: I know I’ve thanked you in lots of ways but I just wanted to write to say what a truly talented girl you are. You took my design and from day one made me feel like you were so passionate about it, so sure of where you were going with it I felt totally at ease. I loved coming to your house and sharing everything from fabric samples to life stories with you and the final product simply breathtaking. I have had so many compliments on the dress, all that detail and though paid off! We wish you every bit of success with your business and with the arrival of your beautiful new baby. Thank you a million times.

Love, Vicki xxx

Rachel Tyler (Vicki’s mum) wrote:

Vicki is so thrilled with her dress-every bit as pleased with how it has all come together as she planned. It would be lovely to see you at the church if you are free.

Finally and far too late I get around to writing to you. Your creation for Vicki was just so utterly perfect and so right for her. She looked exactly how she had hoped to and I know it was far beyond her hopes and dreams. You took so much care and of course it showed. The fit was perfect, it moved as she moved and the ooh’s and ahh’s said it all.

train pick up on made to measure wedding dress
made to measure wedding dress with lace back detail
dressing the bride a perfect dress ready to wear sweetheart neckline
the bride and her dressmaker

I was privileged enough to be invited to the ceremony of Vicki’s wedding which was close by where I live. Here is Vicki pictured with me, her dressmaker. I am approx 20 weeks pregnant in this picture, it’s a baby not a food belly! And yes I made my outfit too, similar styles from £1600.

another bride and her dressmaker

I was fortunate that a previous client recommended to me to Vicki as an expert wedding dress maker. And we were both then invited to Vicki’s wedding, such a compliment! It was lovely to see Katie again. You can see pictures of Katie’s bespoke butterfly inspired wedding dress here. And her mother’s tea length wedding dress, also made by me.

Making Vicki’s chiffon cowl back wedding dress

original design sketch by Felicity Westmacott

Original design sketch for the chiffon cowl back wedding dress

After her initial consultation but before Vicky booked-in I sent her pictures and a video (which can be seen on my facebook business page) of a quickly sewn sample. Made from scrap fabrics, to check I had the right understanding of her desires. In the beginning Vicky was toying with the idea of an underbust ribbon or beaded line, hence the silver ribbon here.

lace work on a sample

Making the chiffon cowl back wedding dress

toile practice run wedding dress couture

Pictures from the toile (practice run) fitting, a trial run of the dress in cheap fabrics.

lace sample chantilly

Vicki went to London to buy her lace and found something really beautiful. You can also order similar fabrics through my sample books, like that shown here from £120/m.

lace pinned on and ready to sew couture sewing

Sewing on the bodice lace, all cut and sewn by hand.

fitting picture bespoke dressmaker
cowl back wedding dress flash and no flash ivory colour

Pictures from the first fitting in real fabrics, back view. Pictures taken with and without flash showing how much difference that can make to the colour and shine of simple ivory satin!

fitting picture bespoke dressmaker

An intermediate fitting of the chiffon cowl back wedding dress.

finished dress on the stand sweetheart neckline

Finished dress on the stand

bustle up button detail with hidden something blue

The train hooked up for dancing on a tiny button hidden just inside the cowl drape.

shoulder strap on bespoke wedding dress
finished dress with low back and lace cowl drape

I supported the delicate cotton lace with a piece of silk organza, specially dyed to match Vicki’s skin tone so it wouldn’t show at all when worn.

hand lace applique work on finished dress

To see another wedding dress with extensive lace work, visit my page for Lauren’s wedding dress

And I have a dedicated blog post showing all the lace wedding dresses I am most proud of here.

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Felicity Westmacott

I write about all aspects of weddings, dressmaking, fashion history, and the human relation to clothing. I welcome comments and debate.

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This wedding dress took the most paint I've ever used for one of my dip-dye creations. 

Victoria's wedding dress is beautiful in part because it's so full, and that fullness comes from layers. So before I could even get to the main event, I had two underlayers to spray, both with long trains.

When it comes to spraying, the best setup is one where you're away from everything else, with good ventilation. Where better than outside? That does mean dressing to keep warm, and in clothes you don't mind getting a bit painty.

But all that effort was so worth it. Victoria chose such a gorgeously unusual colour palette - deepening from lilac, through purple, into black. It's regal, gothic, and has a real fantasy feel. And I think dyeing the full-length lace sleeves to match really finishes off the look.

What do you think of this colour combination?
A bustle this pretty deserves a pretty name 🌸

If your wedding dress is floor length or longer, a bustle is not only a really practical feature to add, it can also transform your gown.

For Emily I did an overbustle with five points. These kinds of bustle usually go up to the waistline, but we brought it down, so if you want a 'proper' term, it would be a low five-point overbustle (or American bustle). 

But I like to simply call it a petal bustle - a much prettier name, and it's what it looks like.

You can tell it's going to move amazingly on the dancefloor 🪩 ✨ 

if you'd like to find out more about what's possible with your dress, the link to book a consultation is in my bio.
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in
from design to completionbespoke wedding dressesFelicity Westmacott
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in