Ethereal lace and chiffon cowl back wedding dress

cowl back wedding dress with train silk georgette and satin

Vicki commissioned a chiffon cowl back wedding dress in ivory soft satin and Georgette with hand appliquéd lace.

Official photographs by Vivien Woods

A short video of Vikki’s dress being worn here: Vicki’s Dress

The dress has and empire line bodice, lightly boned with a sweetheart neckline and shaped straps. The skirt was made of layered satin and Georgette split at centre front to reveal the contrast fabric beneath. A train flowed out at the back and could be hooked up for dancing. The back bodice was cut away and filled with delicate cotton lace, framed by a satin cowl draping from the shoulders. More lace was cut and hand appliqued to the front bodice and all around the edge of the back opening to blend the join between fabrics.

confetti shot bespoke wedding dress princess line
 hand lace applique work on duchess satin bodice

Detail of the lace hand appliquéd to the front bodice of the chiffon cowl back wedding dress. Some edges were left loose to create a soft and fluttering effect.

ivory silk chiffon train and cowl back
church wedding romantic made to measure wedding dress
wrist loop on couture wedding dress long train
ivory silk wedding dress layered chiffon and satin with lace and straps
silk and lace wedding dress ivory silk chiffon and lace

 Thank you letter

testimonial thank you letter dressmaker

Vicki wrote: I know I’ve thanked you in lots of ways but I just wanted to write to say what a truly talented girl you are. You took my design and from day one made me feel like you were so passionate about it, so sure of where you were going with it I felt totally at ease. I loved coming to your house and sharing everything from fabric samples to life stories with you and the final product simply breathtaking. I have had so many compliments on the dress, all that detail and though paid off! We wish you every bit of success with your business and with the arrival of your beautiful new baby. Thank you a million times.

Love, Vicki xxx

Rachel Tyler (Vicki’s mum) wrote:

Vicki is so thrilled with her dress-every bit as pleased with how it has all come together as she planned. It would be lovely to see you at the church if you are free.

Finally and far too late I get around to writing to you. Your creation for Vicki was just so utterly perfect and so right for her. She looked exactly how she had hoped to and I know it was far beyond her hopes and dreams. You took so much care and of course it showed. The fit was perfect, it moved as she moved and the ooh’s and ahh’s said it all.

train pick up on made to measure wedding dress
made to measure wedding dress with lace back detail
dressing the bride a perfect dress ready to wear sweetheart neckline
the bride and her dressmaker

I was privileged enough to be invited to the ceremony of Vicki’s wedding which was close by where I live. Here is Vicki pictured with me, her dressmaker. I am approx 20 weeks pregnant in this picture, it’s a baby not a food belly! And yes I made my outfit too, similar styles from £1600.

another bride and her dressmaker

I was fortunate that a previous client recommended to me to Vicki as an expert wedding dress maker. And we were both then invited to Vicki’s wedding, such a compliment! It was lovely to see Katie again. You can see pictures of Katie’s bespoke butterfly inspired wedding dress here. And her mother’s tea length wedding dress, also made by me.

Making Vicki’s chiffon cowl back wedding dress

original design sketch by Felicity Westmacott

Original design sketch for the chiffon cowl back wedding dress

After her initial consultation but before Vicky booked-in I sent her pictures and a video (which can be seen on my facebook business page) of a quickly sewn sample. Made from scrap fabrics, to check I had the right understanding of her desires. In the beginning Vicky was toying with the idea of an underbust ribbon or beaded line, hence the silver ribbon here.

lace work on a sample

Making the chiffon cowl back wedding dress

toile practice run wedding dress couture

Pictures from the toile (practice run) fitting, a trial run of the dress in cheap fabrics.

lace sample chantilly

Vicki went to London to buy her lace and found something really beautiful. You can also order similar fabrics through my sample books, like that shown here from £120/m.

lace pinned on and ready to sew couture sewing

Sewing on the bodice lace, all cut and sewn by hand.

fitting picture bespoke dressmaker
cowl back wedding dress flash and no flash ivory colour

Pictures from the first fitting in real fabrics, back view. Pictures taken with and without flash showing how much difference that can make to the colour and shine of simple ivory satin!

fitting picture bespoke dressmaker

An intermediate fitting of the chiffon cowl back wedding dress.

finished dress on the stand sweetheart neckline

Finished dress on the stand

bustle up button detail with hidden something blue

The train hooked up for dancing on a tiny button hidden just inside the cowl drape.

shoulder strap on bespoke wedding dress
finished dress with low back and lace cowl drape

I supported the delicate cotton lace with a piece of silk organza, specially dyed to match Vicki’s skin tone so it wouldn’t show at all when worn.

hand lace applique work on finished dress

To see another wedding dress with extensive lace work, visit my page for Lauren’s wedding dress

And I have a dedicated blog post showing all the lace wedding dresses I am most proud of here.

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Felicity Westmacott

I write about all aspects of weddings, dressmaking, fashion history, and the human relation to clothing. I welcome comments and debate.

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The dress on the stand vs. the dress in action✨

I made the Poinsettia dress last Christmas for my window display. I never would have predicted that it would be spotted by Rosie, who then bought it and wore it for the 2025 Miss Great Britain pageant!

My bespoke designs have been used for all sorts of events. Weddings mainly (obviously), but parties, anniversaries and proms too. But this might be the first time one of my gowns has been seen on the stage of a pageant. And doesn't Rosie look so serenely glamorous? The perfect model for this sparkly, elegant dress. And she placed in the top 10. Well done Rosie!
You might’ve noticed that I can get quite particular about language. I think it’s important, especially when that word can carry a lot of meaning. When words get misused, you as a consumer might get mis-sold something.

An example of this is the word ‘vintage’, which now gets tacked onto the description of any garment, whether or not it actually is vintage. Often the item just looks like it’s from an older period of fashion, and for many sellers now, that’s good enough to warrant the label ‘vintage’ (which it’s not).

‘Bespoke’ is another of those words. The word comes from ‘to bespeak’, which means, to ask for. Like someone walking into carpentry workshop and asking for something completely new to be made to their exact specifications.

Anything can be bespoke, if it has been asked for, to be made especially to your requirements and preferences. You often hear it in the context of bespoke suits, but the term doesn’t belong to any one industry.

When it comes to wedding dresses, you have a few options. Off-the-peg, which is what it sounds like. Then there’s custom or made-to-measure, which both describe when something is adjusted or changed. You might order a dress where there are options to customise the length, the sleeves, the neckline etc. 

But true bespoke is something different. It’s a dress that’s been designed and made completely from scratch. Completely to your measurements and your ideas. With several stages of fittings and adjustments, to ensure it’s exactly how you want it. It’s an entirely unique garment, and this is why the price of a bespoke dress can be so much more than something off-the-peg or made-to-measure.

So, next time something online claims to be ‘bespoke’, now you know what to look for to make sure you’re not being tricked into pay more for less.
Tonight is the Wedding Industry Awards! I'm in the running for two awards, which is all very exciting! 🏆

Since it's such a special occasion, I decided to design and make myself a dress. That way, regardless of the outcome, I'll feel like a winner. I rarely have time to make myself anything, so this felt rather lovely.

I used some gorgeous pink coloured silk chiffon, lined with pale gold silk satin, finished off with velvet ribbon. I started making the dress at 11am yesterday, and I finished it at 3pm today. Now I just have to finish making the bolero to go with it as well. I think we're gonna make it! 🏃🏻‍♀️
Just to be extra clear 💜

#seamstress #dressmaker #historicalfashion #weddingdressmaker #weddingdressdesigner
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in
from design to completionbespoke wedding dressesFelicity Westmacott
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in