Making the Phoenix ‘Dip-dye’ dress

My first dip dye dress, called ‘Phoenix’ was designed and made as a romantic ivory silk and tulle wedding dress for another shoot but was perfect to upcycle as a canvas for the colours of autumn. Sustainability and un-needful waste in the fashion world are causes that run deep in my philosophy so recreating a dress into a new incarnation was not a compromise but part of the basic premise.

As a labour of love I spent 7 hours spraying six colours (with the lace trim carefully masked) to produce the final ‘dip-dye’ effect of the finished article.

The sample dress pictured has now been sold but this dress can be made to order from £3300. Please get in touch to discuss your bespoke requirements.

phoenix dip dye wedding dress made to order
november wedding fire and rainbow

Dipdye Trends

‘Dip-dye- has been quite a wedding trend (not to mention for hair styles and home furnishings too) in 2016 and 2017. But in fact a true dip-dye is almost impossible on most wedding dresses. Only natural fibres can be dyed and many dresses, even high priced, high quality ones, are made of man-made fabrics. The tulle of this dress is polyester, though the fabric beneath is silk so dying-proper was not an option.

In fact most ‘dip-dye’ or ‘ombre’ wedding dresses have been sprayed, not dyed and so I followed suit. After some careful research (asking people who might know) I opted for a florists spray called ‘Oasis’. The florist working with us on the photoshoot (Michelle Knibbs of Muscari Whites) kindly donated me the spray cans from her stash.

The original dress

Here is the dress before work began… virgin as from the previous photoshoot and modelled here by yours truly!

Ivory silk and tulle Wedding dress by Felicity Westmacott
Ivory silk and tulle Wedding dress by Felicity Westmacott

Upcycle design with colour

Here was the design I had in my head, though some of this didn’t come through in the final look. The other creatives on the team were less keen than I to go all the way with large leaf headdresses and curling ivy tendrils. I love flights of fantasy, but a ‘realistic, if unusual wedding’ look was also part of the premise!

Dress Design by Felicity Westmacott 'Helada'

Below an image of the very famous ‘dip-dyed’ (but actually sprayed) wedding dress that went viral in 2016 and was the starting point for all this work. And some lovely autumn coloured leaves, which I loved as my inspiration palette! The dress below dress goes all through to blue at the hem, but ours was not trying to be a copy, the similarity in colours is only co-incidental as our Autumn theme demanded the yellow, orange and red!

Dip Dye inspiration dress

Dress Colouring: www.taylorannart.com

Photo: www.jamestangphotography.com

real leaves in a graduated circle of colour, red, yellow and orange

Starting the colour work

…and here I am all set to go with the dress outside on plastic ready for spraying

Ivory silk and tulle Wedding dress by Felicity Westmacott
Ivory silk and tulle Wedding dress by Felicity Westmacott

Oasis Floral Spray

First I did a spray test on some fabric samples, using the same silk, tulle and lace.

Autumn colours spray lest on fabric

You can buy this spray, and others similar from most floral wholesalers. I often buy from Trevor Green and direct from the Oasis website too.

Autumn colours spray lest on fabric

I was very lucky with the weather and able to work all day layering up colour with drying periods in between. So next I masked the lace trim with tape and set to work.

Ivory silk and tulle Wedding dress by Felicity Westmacott, dip-dye spraying in progress

Layering from below the lace trim I started with two shades of yellow and then orange and the first shade of red.

Ivory silk and tulle Wedding dress by Felicity Westmacott, dip-dye spraying in progress

I worked outwards towards the hem, the bands of colour widening as I came round the back of the train. Three shades of red were graduated into a touch of purple at the very edge, which makes the yellow at the other end of the rainbow really ‘pop’.

Ivory silk and tulle Wedding dress by Felicity Westmacott, dip-dye spraying in progress

I sprayed and sprayed, not just each colour, but also the same colours again as second and third coats, moving the tulle around as I worked to ensure it was coated evenly and without any bare patches.

Dip-dye Ivory silk and tulle Wedding dress by Felicity Westmacott, dip-dye spraying in progress

Finishing off

Once I was finished spraying I removed the tape and decided to add one very light layer of yellow over the lace trim and just above. The effect was very subtle, but just enough that the lace did not seem to harsh and sudden a contrast with the colour below.

Dip-dye Ivory silk and tulle Wedding dress by Felicity Westmacott, dip-dye spraying in progress

The finished dress was not quite as saturated with colour as I would have liked. But I was limited on both time available (with another two dresses still to make for the shoot) and the spray cans ran out! You can see can another coat would have filled those paler areas, but for the shoot we were good to go!

Ivory silk and tulle Wedding dress by Felicity Westmacott: Frost on the leaves photoshoot

For many more images from the official photographer on the photoshoot, and the other dresses I designed see the portfolio entry…

felicitywestmacottcouk.wordpress.com/portfolio/photoshoot-frost-on-the-leaves

ombre bridal gown red yellow orange and ivory train

Photography by Jessica Jill Partridge, Modelled by Keely Simeoni

This dress is available to hire for photoshoots, or to buy for a wedding or as costume. Please contact me direct for rates and terms and conditions, pertaining to purchase and hire.

sleeping princess bride ivy autumn flowers
Frost on the leaves photoshoot, can

A shot from behind the scenes creating the image above. So much is in the fantasy!

The plastic cover for the ground in my garden wasn’t perfect but the spray I got on the paving proved very attractive to our photographer who made good use of it in quite a few close up and detail pictures!

gilded bouquet autumn wedding inspiration

Creatives

with thanks to all the other creatives on the photoshoot team!

Photography: Jessica Jill Partridge,
Dresses made & designed by Felicity Westmacott
Styling by Jessica of www.foxandpartridge.com
Models Katja Cemic, Keely Simeoni and Isabella Crighton
Hair styling by Very Bettie
Make up by www.charlottemuapro.com,
Bespoke Shoes by Marsha Hall
Jewellery by Vicky Forrester
Veil and headpieces by Jen Levet
Floristry by Michelle Knibbs of Muscari Whites
Garden wreath byThe Girl who Gardens

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felicity westmacott wearing a hat

Felicity Westmacott

I write about all aspects of weddings, dressmaking, fashion history, and the human relation to clothing. I welcome comments and debate.

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If there's one thing a bride has to do when starting their bespoke journey...it's trust the process.

Your wedding dress will go through so many stages before it's the dress you dreamed of. There will be fittings where you try on the dress and you think "this isn't what I imagined" - and that's totally fine!

I would encourage you to always speak your doubts to me, there in the room. Or, message me afterwards if that makes you more comfortable. My job is to create the perfect wedding dress for you, and I can only do that if you tell me what you're thinking and feeling.

Sometimes it will mean dramatically changing the design. 
Sometimes it means a subtle adjustment here and there. 
Or sometimes it's just offering reassurance that this is just part of the journey.

Whatever it is, we're on this ride together.

You wouldn't be able to recognise Caitlin's butter yellow wedding dress from her first toile to her final fitting. And she looked even more stunning on the day. Follow along - I'll be posting her wedding photos soon!
I can't wait to show you the photos from this wedding 😍 Mollie ordered a version of my black Morticia wedding dress and then proceeded to get married in Transylvania!

Can you get more gothic than that?? 

This was from our final fitting together. Follow along to see just how drop dead gorgeous Mollie looked on the day 🦇

#gothicwedding #gothbride #gothbridal #alternativebride #morticiaaddams
One of the pleasures of having my own shop, is I also get some alone time.
If you have a busy life you know the rare joy of getting to hang out with just yourself sometimes.

Which isn't to say I don't love welcoming brides into my shop - I absolutely do.
But I don't think I could ever have a colleague in the shop with me (not full time, anyway). 
Not after working for myself for 25 years, and being used to how I like to to do things. 

Isn't that the difference between being alone and lonely. I am alone, but very much not lonely.

Hands up all my introverts! 🙌🏻
"I am so grateful for your contribution to my dress. Everybody loved it."⁠
⁠
This custom dip dye overskirt was the perfect pop of colour for Tanja's wedding dress. ⁠And with autumn well and truly here, I wanted to celebrate those beautiful colours.⁠
⁠
Her floor length skirt included:⁠
💛a graduated hi-low hem to match the dress underneath⁠
🧡two layers of soft tulle⁠
🩷hand dyed with four vibrant colours; yellow, orange, red and burgundy⁠
❤️snaps along the waist for easy attachment and removal to the wedding dress⁠
⁠
My bespoke ombre overskirts have so many other customisation options as well. From extra layers of tulle or lining fabric, to finishing off the waistband with ribbon or a pretty beaded belt. And I have over 30 colours to choose from, so there are almost limitless options.⁠
⁠
There are so many other customisation options as well. From extra layers of tulle or lining fabric, to finishing off the waistband with ribbon or a pretty beaded belt. And I have over 30 colours to choose from, so there are almost limitless options!⁠
⁠
You can find more examples of my dip dye work on my website.⁠
Or drop me a DM, and let's talk colour!
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in
from design to completionbespoke wedding dressesFelicity Westmacott
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
Dorking, RH4 1RT241 High Street• Visit the Studio •
emailme@felicitywestmacott.co.ukTEL 07762 543230TOUCHGet in